Category: South Africa

South African Safari 2025 Day 10 – The day of the Waterbuck

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After a restless nights sleep, which involved plenty of exercise in the form of getting in and out of bed to turn on and off the air conditioning, we prepared for our journey up to Letaba. The weather was very different to yesterdays….yesterday at 11 am it was 36 degrees Celsius where as today it was only 24 degrees Celsius. Letaba camp is about 90km north of Satara. We haven’t been up this high for probably 10 years….basically because the game has been scarce and sightings were few and far between. However we had been unable to book into Satara ( our preferred area due to prolific game) for longer, as it was full. So being flexible we decided to carry on up the park. John has never been to Punda Marie neither has he stayed in Shingwedzi. It must be about 20 years since I’ve stayed in the later…although for many years prior to this Shingwedzi was my favourite camp and I knew most the staff by name. We decided to stay 2 nights in Letaba before stopping in Shingwedzi for 3 nights….I couldn’t be persuaded to stay in Punda Marie, but have agreed to drive up there so John can have a look at the area. Many years ago I had booked Punda Marie, my son was a youngster and they provided me with a mattress for him on the floor…..the mattress was so old and stained that I wouldn’t even have let my dog sleep on it…disgusting..and it has put me off staying there ever since…I am certain 30+ years later it is absolutely fine but my memories remain vivid so for us it’s a no-no.

Back to the present…we had a meagre breakfast of 2 yogurts each and set off up the tar. The terrain is very different here…wide open flat spaces of nothingness. Our first half an hour was extremely enjoyable with 99+ zebra and wilderness traversing the plains.

After this our sightings became few and far between. We saw a few families of elephants in the almost dried up waterholes the road passes by. A couple of these waterholes had a flurry of mixed sightings. One in particular had zebra, Wildebeest, kudu and impala all streaming in longlines down to and then away from the water. A lovely view.

Some of the little streams of water had waterbuck on the shallow banks.

The Waterbuck is a large antelope, it has reddish brown course fur with white around its nose and eyes and a white collar around its neck. It also has a very distinctive “follow-me” white circle on its rump…many say this looks like a toilet seat or even a target 🤣. Like many antelope the waterbuck male has horns where as the slightly smaller female does not. The waterbuck is a very strong swimmer, it uses its hollow bearded neck hair for buoyancy. Its fur releases a smelly musky oil which repels water. We have also been told on numerous occasions by game rangers that the waterbuck also releases this oil when it is frightened. The lion is its main predator but has learnt to leave it alone because the oil it releases taints its meat which makes it unpalatable.

Our trip continued along the tar. As we drew closer to Letaba we decided to take one of the gravel road loops down and along the Letaba river. We saw zebra, elephant and impala.

We stopped at the edge of the water for elevenses. We are now reduced to park purchased processed cheese on some Woolworths crackers..not too bad. We watched three waterbuck walk along in front of us…they had a youngster with them. We saw a saddle-billed stork waddle along. An enjoyable half hour break from driving.

Our total viewing for the day was 99+ impala, 99+ wildebeest, 99+ zebra, 15 giraffe, 3 warthog, 2 grey Lourie, 6 kudu, 4 hippo, 37 elephants, 28 buffalo, 17 waterbuck, 2 steenbok, 1 bateleur, 1 saddlebilled stork, 1 squirrel.

We arrived at the Letaba reception at around 11.30….. too early for check in which is 2 pm. However we did book on to the sunset drive. We went to wait until check-in at the restaurant and decided to have a toasted bacon sandwich for lunch while overlooking the river, with its many islands which appear during the dry season.

At 2 pm we picked up our chalet key. Once again the chalet was the tired old variety but as it was on the perimeter fence we overlooked the river. It had a closed in veranda, with mosquito netting and wire , which makes you feel as if you are in a cage looking out🤣. This time we had a microwave, toaster, kettle ( thank heavens…can’t wait for a coffee), and full utensils but no hotplate or sink…however there is a large tub for putting your dirty dishes in and carrying to the communal kitchen to wash up….ummmm…no! I can’t see either John or I doing that so I guess it will be the restaurant for the next two nights🤣🤣

We arrived early for the sunset drive and our name was first on the list so we got a choice of where we wanted to sit. The truck was almost completely full, but this time with people who actually wanted to game view and knew the etiquette of the bush.

Off we set with our driver and guide “Happiness” . Unfortunate her name did not deliver. We saw lots of giraffes. Several were stood in “ push-me pull-me” positions. Lots of animals do this in particular zebras and impala, it is so they each look in different directions so they can see if any predators are coming.

The 3 hour drive showed us giraffe and elephant. A rather lovely sighting was a nyala buck and 3 cows in a dried river bed. As we were nearing the end of our drive we saw a black backed jackal, however Happiness was reluctant to reverse the truck so that everyone could see it. Just before we turned in the camp gate 2 hyena appeared, but once again Happiness didn’t reverse even though most the truck were asking her to….a little disappointing…..so for the first time this trip we decided not to tip….we don’t believe in tipping when it’s not earnt or deserving.

Squirrel, kudu, Wildebeest, Buffalo and Elephant.

We headed for the restaurant and once again John had Venison pot pie and I had roasted chicken and …yes I did have a Savannah light🤣

The night saw us playing cards in the cage before an early to bed was required.

South Africa Safari 2025 Day 9 The day of the Blue Wildebeest

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We set off from Lower Sabi to Satara a 138 km drive. Taking the direct route on the tar road led us to cross The Sabi river and enjoy its multitude of various mammals, reptiles and bird life…it did not fail to deliver.

We continued up the H10 viewing large herds of Blue Wildebeest. We were delighted as the last twice we have visited they have been few and far between. Our count soon recorded 99+ of both the wildebeest and its companions the zebra. The Blue Wildebeest is a dark grey colour often with a brown sheen, but more often it stands out looking jet black amongst the dry landscape. Both sexes have horns and its tail is horselike. They like the zebra are grazers…..our former sunset drive guide told us they tend to group with zebras because there is safety in numbers. However many years ago a very knowledgable game ranger told us that the zebra and wildebeest eat different sections of the grass. The zebra eats the top sweeter grass and leaves behind bacteria in its saliva. The wildebeest eats the lower part of the grass and the zebras bacteria helps with the wildebeests digestive system. Who knows which of these philosophies are correct.

The road takes you up and over an escarpment. From the top you can see for literally miles and miles in every direction. There is not a building, industry, road or track, other than the one we were on, to be seen…this really is raw, unspoilt wilderness – untouched by humans and their progression of time …it takes your breath away …miles and miles of nothingness except nature at its very best…magnificent, this is why we keep returning…unless you’ve seen it you can’t imagine the feeling this vista gives you.

We had nearly reached the H1-4 at Tshokwane picnic/ rest site, when we saw a few cars on a bridge. Looking along the almost dry river bed on a low lying branch of a big tree was a leopard. It was in a typical, textbook leopard pose.

We stopped at Tshokwane for the toilets, a look around the shop and a stretch of our legs.

Not long after this we spotted a hyena cooling off in a muddy pool. We sat watching it while we ate our cheese sandwiches. This is the usual way in which hyena stay cool. Further on toward Satara we came across a big herd of buffalo.

During our day we saw 99+ impala, 99+ elephant, 10 hippo, 3 crocodile, 15 waterbuck, 2 warthog, 1 leopard, 99+ Wildebeest, 8 kudu, 99+ zebra, 4 vervet monkeys, 23 Chacma baboons, 2 nyala, 2 bateleur, 1 spotted hyena, 50 buffalo, 3 ground hornbill, 4 quail, 1 lion, 1 black backed jackal.

We arrive at Satara slightly after 2pm….the booking in queue was about 20/25 people long. So while John queued I nipped into the shop opposite to pick up bread, cheese, fruit, yogurts, eet-sum-mor biscuits , water, chocolate and crisps….alas it was very badly stocked, no bread or fruit at all, I came out with water, crisps, eet-sum-mor biscuits and chocolate a really great combination for someone who tries to eat healthily and reduce the sugar intake🤣🤣🤣…having paid the non smiling assistant I joined John in the queue.

We were eventually greeted by the stern check-in lady…I tried all the usual niceties but failed to raise a smile…but we did get our room key….geeeze F144 chalet was defiantly a museum piece…I don’t think it had been updated since I first stayed in Kruger in 1989🤣 The curtains almost met in the middle on one window the other had a foot gap…hey ho I could be accused of flashing if anyone was looking in but what the heck🤣 The air conditioner was an original model which rattled so loudly it even smothered the rumblings of the fridge it was next to….It had only three working settings, on, cold or hot. The cold worked very well blasting the pillows on each bed with winds from the Arctic…unfortunately there was nothing in between so I spent most the night turning it off, dozing and sweating and then turning it back on again. The fridge and the air conditioner took up the only plug socket apart from the one over the sink…so we plugged in the extension lead and hoped we didn’t electrocute ourselves during the night.🤣

Our late afternoon 2 hour drive was of course along the S100. This is a favourite dirt road we have driven hundreds of times because it always shows us the unexpected . We had been going on it for about 3/4 of an hour and seen very little, a few wildebeest, zebra, impala, ground hornbill, a giraffe and a massive tusker of an elephant who stood hidden in a bush next to the road and nearly gave me a heart attack when it suddenly moved. We asked several other vehicles coming in the other direction if they had seen much but they said nothing, it was very quiet. We decided to U-turn.

We were just saying that it was the first time ever the S100 had failed us when!! …….both myself and a car coming towards us jammed on our breaks….walking out from behind some tall grass across the road in front of us was a massive male lion. We sat and watched him for 3 minutes before he disappeared from sight again. We pulled up alongside the other car to compare our elation, they had actually seen a lioness cross first of all….wow…the S100 never fails to deliver the unexpected.

We headed back on the H1 and past Satara camp gates, deciding to head up the tar for 30 minutes and see what was about. It was prolific with elephants, zebra, wildebeest and impala. Just as we were about to turn around we saw a black backed jackal…these are one of my favourites.

We returned to camp highly satisfied with our days game viewing and a magnificent sunset.

We went straight to the Cattle Baron restaurant. We were as usual greeted with a smile and highly attentive service. Thank you Permission you certainly earnt your big tip….we thoroughly enjoyed our Chateaubriand flamed in Brandy followed by ice cream and chocolate sauce…naughty but nice…and to be even naughtier I had my first Savannah Light of the holiday…it all came to the princely sum of £32…..

We retired to our museum chalet for a few games of cards and an uncomfortable nights sleep.

South African Safari 2025 Day 8 The day of the Hippo

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We had a full day driving around the Lower Sabi area. A leisurely breakfast took place on our veranda, watching, elephant, hippos and giraffe zig zag across the river munching on the reeds and grasses and cooling off in the water…..what a splendid view…how privileged we are to be able to experience the uninhibited bushlands where gods creatures roam free and all wildlife lives its natural life in its natural habitat.

Our chalet/hut was still delightful although the shower wasn’t quite as good as the previous days….very hot, hard to get cool enough and fairly low pressure…but it sufficed.

We headed up the tar road to Skakuza, because John had ear-wagged our neighbours saying there was a lion kill. We didn’t see any lions but we did see the buffalo carcass with numerous vultures and other raptures feeding on it..near by waiting patiently was a hungry crocodile.

We drove a few more kilometres further down the tar before turning back. We crossed the Sabi on the tar road to Tshokwane and took the first right hand dirt road which loops around.

From the low pontoon bridge we saw numerous hippos, some young, some showing that they needed the dentist, some grazing, some sleeping in large pods and some just wallowing in the water…A hippo can live for an average of 35 years in the wild. A male hippo can weigh up to 4500kg and a female 1600kg. They walk under water and can remain submerged for up to 5 minutes. It is responsible for the most human fatalities and injuries and is therefore known as the most dangerous mammal in Africa. We saw 99+ hippos throughout the day.

Our loop on the dirt road showed us 99+ impala, 20 WBV, 10 crocodile, 99+ elephant, 10 giraffe, 1 African Fish Eagle, 1 yellow-billed hornbill, 2 lilac breasted roller, 9 waterbuck, 55 Wildebeest, 31 zebra, 6 nyala, 3 kori bustard, 1 steenbok, 2 guinea fowl

We stopped at Mlondozi picnic and viewing point. It really is a lovely spot meticulously kept by Sipho who insisted we wrote in his compliments book when I went to thank him for doing such a great job.

We returned to Lower Sabi and ate our cheese sandwiches overlooking the waterhole just outside the camp gates…more hippos were floating around…some people call them a “thunder” of hippos but we prefer the collective noun “a pod of hippos”.

After a rest back at camp we made our way to the car park. We had booked a Parks Board Sunset Drive. It was in the big truck, a 24 seater. I must say we’ve had better drives…there was a group of 11 Finnish men and boys…….we have never been on a Safari truck with such loud, rude people. The youngest child of about 12years of age didn’t know how to talk and shouted the whole time…I shushed him several times. The men stood up most the time. I demanded that the two in front of me sat down stating quite clearly that we had all paid the same and all had the right to view…..grrrr …when one from the back decided to stand at the front I snapped “ sit down we can’t see” he proceeded to squat in the gang way. When he finally went back to his seat I sat sideways with my legs across the gangway so he couldn’t pass by. When we saw a herd of buffalo I stood up so he couldn’t pass or step over my legs…it was not a pleasant experience. We did see a beautiful male nyala I said stop to the driver who had missed it…unfortunately the chi,d decided to repeat my request and his shouting sent the poor bull scarpering, so no opportunity for a picture. Our driver and guide was quite apologetic when we said goodbye. We still tipped him because it wasn’t his fault these rude people had ruined the drive and he would not have been trained in how to deal with loud mouthed Finnish men.

We ate in the restaurant after our drive. It’s a Mug and Bean so John had a jalapeño big burger and I had buttermilk chicken burger…..another nice day ended with us playing cards on our veranda.

South Africa Safari 2025 Day 7- The day of the Giraffe

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We were sad to say goodbye to the so much improved Berg-en-dal…..not only did all the facilities work and the restaurant served good food but more importantly the staff were helpful and charming …so different from the last 2/3 times we visited….this will and can only help to attract the visitors, particularly those who bring large amounts of foreign exchange into the country.

After another breakfast of fruit and yogurt we packed up, left R50 under the kettle for the housekeeper and headed out on our safari drive through to our next camp.

Unlike yesterday we saw absolutely no impala from camp to the main road. We did however see several majestic, skyscrapers, more commonly known as giraffes. So neither of us won the first spot of the morning as I had guessed warthog and John had guessed zebra.

We turned up onto the tar and headed up to the S114 which starts off running parallel to the Crocodile River. When the road branches north we stayed on the Crocodile Bridge Gate Road. We began to see a few impala…infact it was mid afternoon before we counted 99+….the previous day we had seen this number within 10 minutes of leaving the camp…..what a difference a day makes…

It was another grey moody sky, slightly cooler and the drizzle pixelated the windscreen. We were pleased to see the same White-Back Vultures …John now calls them WBV’s….They were once again in a social gathering roosting in tree tops, known as a “committee” of vultures. When there are a lot of them in flight they are often called a “kettle” of vultures….I have no idea why. You often find them in large groups, you can usually tell if they are near a kill because there would be different species of raptures and not all the same. When it’s all the same bird it tends to be a social committee.

We continued along to Crocodile Bridge camp…passing quite a few giraffes. At one point we stayed watching a very young one for ages. It seemed to be all alone and was stood still looking around. Some time later its mother reappeared, much to its and our delight. It galloped across the road obviously delighted to be reunited with its mum.

At Crocodile Bridge camp we used the toilets and stretched our legs in the shop. Unfortunately Crocodile Bridge isn’t in as good order, I couldn’t find a toilet with a lock on the door which actually worked…oh well if someone got an eyeful so be it 🤣🤣. I bought John the obligatory t-shirt…he nearly didn’t get it as I was about to walk out….the shop assistant on the till decided he would serve another person in-front of me even though I had been waiting sometime…I was defiantly made to feel that my skin was the wrong colour. What a shame when Berg-en-dal had really turned a corner and progressed since our last visit.

We didn’t linger at Crocodile Bridge camp and headed up the tar to Lower Sabi. Our animal count was 99+impala, 26 Giraffe, 14 warthog, 68 Elephants, 1 rhino, 2 waterbuck, 29 WBV, 1 African Fish Eagle, 1 Martial Eagle, 5 Kudu, 22 Zebra, 2 Steenbok, 1 wildebeest, 8 vervet monkeys, 3 bushbuck, 27 hippo, 4 terrapins, 1 grey heron, 1 cormorant, 1 crocodile and 2 Quail…..a great variety of wildlife spotting.

On arrival at Lower Sabi we quickly booked in. Our Chalet is No 7 perimeter. It is described as having a kitchenette. The car port is next to the front door and you enter into the bedroom with two singles next to each other, large bathroom with a large shower, a wardroom, two bedside plinths, great air conditioner and a stand for your case. The sliding glass doors open into a room with a table for 4, a fridge, hot plates, microwave , cupboards containing all the required crockery and the third bed. This room has another set of glass sliding doors on to the patio which has a table and seating, a braii stand and it all overlooks the Sabi River. We spent several hours enjoying watching the elephants walk from the far side of the river to graze on the grasses close to our chalets fence.

We lit the braii and this time successfully cooked two sirloin steaks which we ate with salad and rice with an oyster and spring onion sauce. The steak was a little over done but a vast improvement from the cremated sausages 2 nights previously…I gave myself 6/10 although John said he scored it higher….i am determined to have cracked this barbecue malarkey by the time we get home 🤣🤣

South Africa Safari 2025 Day 6 – The Day of The Rhino!

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What can I say ….Berg- en- dal certainly goes against the normal South African trend…in that people perceive things are gradually going down hill….not here in Berg-en-dal…..great chalet …woke up and had a superb shower lovely powerful hot water, my dearest husband made me coffee, then we sat outside eating fresh fruit salad and black cherry yogurt….the bird song and the vervet monkeys thumping on the thatched roof of the chalet along with the squirrels racing up and down near by trees kept us entertained.

As we wanted to head out into the bush we left the dishes from last night and breakfast in the sink. Our wonderful housekeeper had washed them all up and cleaned, made our beds and cleared out the ashes from yesterday’s braii, by the time we got back at midday…what great service.

For our morning drive we decided to head along the tar road and take the gravel road along where we had seen the leopard two nights previously. John got the first spot of the day ..a family of warthogs, digging in the mud for their breakfast…these really are lovely creatures many just call them pigs but their majestic gingery manes and fantastic curled up tusks makes them far more than “just pigs”. They always make me smile…I love the way they kneel down with their front lower legs tucked under them when they forage, very practical and a lesson for short people to follow🤣🤣

We had seen 99+ impalas before reaching the main road. Our drive consisted of seeing the usual array of wildlife. As we traversed the gravel road there was no sign of the leopard or its kill up the tree…however the bush decided to grace us with another spectacular sight. On the far banks of the river were 4 adult rhino and one youngster…WOW!!!! …we so rarely see rhino in the park because poaching has virtually eradicated them. The rangers have worked so hard to try and protect them, they are of course one of the species which is critically endangered . We were so excited, a couple of other cars pulled up and quickly moved on…obviously they didn’t understand the significance of seeing so many of these beautiful creatures all together…we sat along time in awe of these giants.

We continued our circular route around to Afsaal rest area and used the toilets and stretched our legs in the shop. We then drove back to Berg-en-Dal via the tar…suddenly we saw movement in the bushes and low and behold we viewed another large female rhino with her elder calf. This time these had been dehorned so they must have been part of the Parks breeding and protection project….what a great job the rangers are doing.

We got back to our chalet by 12,30 and John made us cheese rolls for lunch. We then had a couple of frustrating hours trying to get on the Internet…..we were not successful for long.

By 3 pm we were frustrated and decided to go for another drive. We stopped at the top of the hill outside the camp and “ping” we had internet…so we loaded some photos and uploaded yesterday’s blog…it was so speedy it took us all of 5 minutes. We drove along the Crocodile River for several kms before cutting up on a different track…again we saw some lovely sights…in particular a couple of giraffe who stood, in the middle of this quiet dirt track, looking at us as if to say “ what right do you have to drive on my track” …..eventually they moved and let us pass. We saw numerous elephants and some very cute youngsters. Our wildlife spotting count for the day was 99+ impala, 39 Elephant, 16 warthog, 4 vervet monkeys , 1 squirrel, 10 guinea fowl, 7 rhino, 6 kudu, 21 zebra, 3 wildebeest, 8 giraffe, 2 common duiker, 27 Chacma baboons, 1 dwarf mongoose, 1 ibis, 1 white backed vulture, 2 red-billed horn bill.

It was a cloudy cool, day with a moody sky which looked like rain clouds, so on returning to camp at 6.00 pm we decided to “ chicken out” of the braii and headed for the restaurant. John had venison pot pie with chips and I had half a grilled chicken and chips. We shared a piece of cake and a portion of ice cream for dessert…naughty but nice… This cost us £22 including our drinks …what a great place Berg- en -dal is.

Tomorrow we head to Lower Sabi Camp.