Category: Alaska

Alaska – Juneau – BEEN THERE GOT THE T-SHIRT

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Been there got the t-shirt

The delightful town of Juneau is the official capital of the USA State of Alaska. It is situated on the Gastineau Channel …an area Cruisers call the inside passage. It is both a coastal and a mountain town which is rich in both culture and wildlife.

It was named in 1881, after gold prospector Joe Juneau and it became the designated  capital of Alaska in 1906. It covers an area of 3,255sq miles, of which only 14sq miles are inhabited by approx 32,400 people.

One of Juneaus unique features is that you can not drive to it. The rugged mountain ranges surrounding Juneau make it impossible to access by road. People either fly in, arrive by ferry or like many visitors arrive by cruise ship. 

We have been fortunate to visit Juneau on many different occasions. This has meant we have visited most of its attractions :- 

The beautiful Mendenhall Glacier is only 12 miles from the centre of Juneau and is a very popular attraction. Visitors  enjoy a variety of activities here including hiking, wildlife viewing, and exploring the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center. On one occasion when we visited the UK BBC had just finished filming bears during the salmon spawning season from the raised wooden walkway along the river at the foot of the glacier. Lots of people choose to glacier walk here. We, however, like walking the wooden platforms looking for bears. We’ve been lucky a couple of times and even luckier to see a porcupine rattle past us. 

Mendenhall Glacier
Close up of Mendenhall Glacier

The Mount Roberts Tramway is another visitor attraction. Although there is usually a long queue it moves quickly and it never seems crowded at the top . The tramway is a quick and scenic ride to the top of Mount Roberts, from here you can enjoy panoramic views of Juneau and the surrounding area.

The Salmon Hatchery is extremely interesting. You learn all about Alaska’s important salmon industry, the 5 different types of Salmon and you get to see salmon up close.

Our favourite activity which we do every time is Juneau is Whale Watching. Juneau is a great place to spot humpback whales and killer whales (orcas), especially between April and November. We take a tour boat out in Auke Bay. The company we always use guarantee that we will see whales or they will give you your money back. We’ve never had to have  a refund because we have always seen whales…..splendid sightings…

Breaching Humpback Whale
Whale Fluke
Orca whale (often referred to as the Killer whale ) .

Denali Nation Park, Alaska- BEEN THERE GOT THE T-SHIRT

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Denali is the highest peak, 20,310 feet high,  in North America. It is situated in the central area of Alaska 237 miles north of Anchorage, and 120 miles south of Fairbanks. Mount Denali has a north and south summit. They were both snow-capped at the time of our last visit. However climate change has altered this and suggests that the view we had is unlikely to be repeated.

It is also the name of the National Park. Denali National Park is 6 million acres(24,000sq Km) of wild land, with one winding road. We call it the road to nowhere!!

We have been fortunate to visit it several times. On arriving in the town, the first time, we went to a show which was not only very well acted but also very informative.

We decided to do a full day trip into the park. Half day trips transverse the lowest elevations which is mostly forestry areas for approximately 15 mi (24 km) of the road. These lower elevations are covered in trees and contribute to the fact that in Alaska there are at least 40,000 trees for each Alaskan resident. Through our experience we have learnt that this lower elevation area doesn’t attract as much wild life as you can see deeper into the National Park. We have seen occasional Moose, Caribou and Grizzly Bears this low.

A full days tour in a school  bus, goes deeper into the park on to the tundra of the middle elevations. Several portions of the road run alongside sheer cliffs that drop hundreds of feet at the edges. There are no crash barriers. As a result of the danger involved, and because most of the gravel road is only one lane wide, drivers have to  be trained in procedures for navigating the sharp mountain curves and yielding the right of way to wild life,  opposing buses and park vehicles. On one occasion we got in a traffic queue with a slow moving Caribou who walked down the middle of the road for several kilometres with our bus trundling along behind it.

This park road runs north of and roughly parallel to the imposing Alaska Range. Only the start  of the road is paved because both permafrost and the freeze-thaw annual cycle would create a very expensive maintenance programme for a paved road.

Denali National park was formally known as Mount McKinley National Park. The name was subject to local criticism, as the mountain was originally named after a newly elected US president in 1897 and the park was named Mount McKinley National Park when it was created in 1917. The local Alaskan people wanted it called Denali because it means  “the great one” or “the high one,” Denali plays a central role in the creation myth of the Koyukon Athabascans, a Native Alaskan group that has lived in the region for centuries. For many years the local people tried to get the name changed. Much to most peoples delight  on August 30, 2015 President Barak Obama directed the Secretary of the Interior to rename the mountain Denali. The higher elevations of the park are covered with snow, glaciers and bare rock. In the winter people dog-sledge, cross-country ski and snowmobile in the park which is home to numerous wildlife including grizzly bears, wolves, foxes, moose and Caribou.

The top of Mount Denali is often shrouded in cloud, we have, however, been fortunate to see it on a couple of occasions on beautiful clear days.

The Arctic Circle – BEEN THERE GOT THE T-SHIRT

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The Arctic Circle is an imaginary line encircling the earth. This line is located at latitude 66 33′ North. In the Arctic Circle, the sun does not set on summer solstice (June 20 or 21) and is does not rise on winter solstice (December 21 or 22). There are eight countries which extend into The Arctic Circle. These are Greenland, Iceland, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Russia and Alaska (USA).

Approximately 4 million people, of which 10% of the inhabitants are indigenous, live with in the Arctic circle today. It had been on our ‘bucket list’ to visit and understand some of the cultures of those who live within the Arctic circle for sometime. We decided to achieve this by flying from London to Vancouver, cruising from Vancouver up to Whittier, Alaska, and then take the train to Denali and continue by coach to Fairbanks, from there we decided to take a small plane into the Arctic Circle. It was all going swingingly well up to Fairbanks. We had magnificent views from the train, which slowed for us to take, evidently, unusually clear pictures of Mount Denali.

The weather was kind to us and we got further views of the majestic mountain from the early morning bus to Fairbanks.

Alas! arriving in Fairbanks we were not so lucky…we had allowed two nights in Fairbanks thinking that we would be able to fly in to The Arctic Circle on one of the two nights….more fool us!!! The weather was appalling and we were told on our first night that they were not flying so on our second night as we waited in the small office on the edge of the airstrip we had high hopes. However! It soon became obvious we were going nowhere……they only charge ( it was about US$1000 for two people) if you can actually land in The Arctic, so although we didn’t loose any money by trying, we were bitterly disappointed…we couldn’t stay longer because we had restrictions such as return flights and work to consider……we returned to the UK without completing our ambition..

Two years later we took exactly the same route only this time, on advice, we booked into a Fairbanks hotel for a week. On our first night we found ourselves back at the office on the runway…our chariot awaited us..it didn’t half look small as we boarded our 6 seater plane. Handbags were stashed in the lockers in the wings. We squeezed ourselves in, with John next to the pilot and me behind him, 4 others joined us and we were soon in the air. The flight time is just under an hour. Looking down we had a good view of The Dalton Highway and the Oil Pipeline.

About 40 minutes into the flight the pilot told us he was detouring to circle another small town, which had a landing strip, because some heavy weather was moving in. We circled for about 30 minutes before the pilot said it was safe to continue. We were heading towards ‘Coldfoot’ a town within the Arctic Circle. As we entered into the Arctic circle the pilot told us we could take pictures of the planes dials..which we did.

Again we began to circle and the pilot said he couldn’t land until he could see the landing strip. The weather wasn’t great and the pilot said he’d circle once more before taking us back to Fairbanks and we could try again tomorrow!! We had been in the air nearly 2 hours and he said he had enough ‘gas’ to get us back to Fairbanks….we were just a little nervous!!! Suddenly the pilot said he could see the strip and he was going in…….all we could see was the Yukon River!!! Or was it a fork of the Koyukuk River ??? So we just prayed for longevity!! Thankfully our skilled pilot landed us safely and we disembarked in Coldfoot.

Coldfoot reminded me of some of the towns Dana Stabenhow writes about in her Kate Shuga Novels!!!!! Coldfoot came about when In 1899, gold was discovered in Slate Creek, and a small rush began as prospectors arrived to pan for gold. As winter approached, many of the prospectors got “cold feet” and decided to turn around and head back to warmer climates. The name stuck, Coldfoot’s gold rush only lasted around 5 years and the small town was quickly abandoned when gold was discovered in Wiseman only 10 miles north in 1908. Many of the buildings in Coldfoot were hauled north to Wiseman and rebuilt there. However Coldfoot was resurrected in the 1970s as a construction camp for the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, and as long-haul truckers began driving the Haul Road (later renamed the Dalton Highway), a full-service truck stop was established in Coldfoot. Coldfoot is now a place where travelers can find lodging, dining, gasoline, air service, and even a post office. It is situated nearly 200 miles away from the next largest community. We used its facilities, which could only be described as basic….this really is a ‘one horse town’ with the truckers stop being the one horse!!

Having used the ‘Ladies’ in the truck stop/bar/restaurant/lodgings…we got into a vehicle which took us down the highway for thirty minutes and then off to the right to a place called Wiseman. Wiseman is situated in the Arctic Circle, Northern Alaska it is on the edge of the beautiful Brooks Range mountains near the Gates of the Arctic National Park, along the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River. The community population has fluctuated over the years from a robust mining/trading outpost to current times, with a few families making it their home, when we visited it had had a population explosion!!! Increasing from 12 residents to 14!!! There are no services in the town. We were greeted by one of the residents who took us into the meetings/community centre…it’s still used for village functions but also for tourist group talks.

Another of the huts is set up as a museum. We browsed the village. The residents grow their own vegetables…they are hunters/gatherers. They hunt their allocation of meat..usually Caribou and Moose, which they store in areas deep under their huts, this space acts as a deep freeze all year around. They also store fish they have caught. This helps see them through the winter months when they are snowed in and the river turns to ice.

There are also a few huts which act as Bed & Breakfasts for tourists wishing to experience a few days “off the grid” in the middle of nowhere.
After a couple of hours we returned to Coldfoot. Our pilot was waiting for us. The weather was still not good. I nervously asked how he would see to take off…his response was he didn’t need to see to take off only to land!!!!! 52 minutes later we landed back in the modern day town of Fairbanks.

We were totally delighted to have achieved our ambition. Learning about the way the small population lives was amazing. Wiseman is a village where time has stood still…a wonderful adventure.

From Whittier South to Vancouver

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Some passengers leave for home at this point others continue after the land trip to take the cruise, few like us continue with the back to back and the adventure continues………….

DAY 22 – 19th August 2017 – Kenai to Whittier

Brad had a lie in – and so did we. Bags out at 0830, humans ready for 11am. And we were, for the hour long transfer back to Star Princess in Whittier.
Brad’s aim was to make the 1230 ‘slot’ in the tunnel schedule. We made it with precise timing. Hardly waited at all to pass through the 2 and ½ mile long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel on entry into Whittier.
Today’s bonus – sunshine. It is claimed this was only the 9th day of sun here in Whittier since May.
We were to be amongst the first to arrive. Straightforward passage through boarding and up on deck 14 by 1315 with lunch shortly after. This time we’ve dropped a deck to Caribe – cabin C404.

John and the camera were in for a wait. His patience was rewarded with the arrival of ARR’s train from Denali around 1745.
Early meal in Capri Restaurant as it’s the muster at 2000.
2130 was showtime with Miguel Washington (Comedian) and the dancers with their ‘One Night Only’ routine. And so to bed.

DAY 23 – 20th August 2017. At sea.

A leisurely start with breakfast around 10am. The weather has closed in and the cloud is very low.
Captain Michele Tuvo reckons it will be better this afternoon when we make the calmer waters of Yukatat Bay. In his 12 noon broadcast he advises us we have travelled 275 nautical miles since leaving Whittier with another 30 odd to go to reach Hubbard. The wind speed – a headwind that we’re sailing into – is 30 knots and, when combined with our own ship speed, gives a net figure of 45 knots or thereabouts. And we’re expected to be at Hubbard Glacier at around 1500.

This is the largest tidewater glacier in North America. Its height is 350 feet above sea level with 250 feet below. It is 6 to 7 miles wide and stretches back 76 miles to Mount Logan in Yukon, Canada. This is North America’s second highest peak at 19,800 feet.
And it does not disappoint. As we watch from close quarters we can both see and hear the calving. The captain gives us a full hour turning the Star for all to enjoy the view.
By dinner time on a formal night we are back into open water and regain the swell.

DAY 24 – 21st August 2017 – At sea.

We’d been promised a partial eclipse today (if the weather behaves) before we enter Glacier Bay. Well, of course, it didn’t – just a fleeting glimpse of the sun around 0930. By then, we had picked up the glasses for viewing, lol.
Still, our main purpose of being back in Glacier Bay was to look out for wildlife and have another chance to view the glaciers.
Our sea otter count was in double figures, probably nearer 30 in total for the day. This was complemented by an orca (or perhaps 2).
The inclement weather did not prevent the spectacular view of Margerie Glacier. Once the ship had turned and headed back south the weather closed in further rendering any more viewing impossible. Shame really, as we’d found a warm spot at Muster tender 19!

DAY 25 – 22nd August 2017 – Skagway

The Star Princess arrived early in Skagway (0530) although we were not there to see her arrive. With a long trip ahead of us we opted for a later start. We were greeted by low cloud and showers – typical Skagway really. Ruby Princess was in port on a Seattle to Victoria (Vancouver Island) which goes no further north than Glacier Bay. Celebrity Solstice and Neiuw Amsterdam were also here.
Our trip was off at 1130 – or rather we were to take the 1200 ferry, Fairweather Express I, to Haines. This is the HSFF (Haines to Skagway Fast Ferry) for passengers only.
The 14 mile crossing took 45 minutes. This is in sharp contrast to the road journey between these 2 places, a staggering 350 mile trip into Canada and back out again taking at least 7 hours!
Seabourn Sojourn was moored at the small cruise dock on our arrival.
A lunch bag (literally) was handed to us in the meeting room of the Alaskan Native Brotherhood (and Sisterhood) before embarking on our wildlife adventure.
And it was well worth it. A number of bald eagle sightings including a couple of fledglings in their nest. The harbour seals were seen at close quarters enjoying the high tide in the Chilcoot river, not to mention the abundance of salmon. But the highlights without a doubt were 2 juvenile brown bears. They were playing in the river and criss-crossing the road in front of us, One was running with the salmon he had just caught.
Chilcoot Lake was the next stop – to see the salmon returning to spawn. This was played out against a backdrop of just one of the 100,000 glaciers in the country, most of which are not named.
By the time of our return to the ferry terminal, the rain was far more persistent and the cloud so low that our return journey was a non-event as far as viewing anything was concerned.
And so back to ship at 1745. Our sailing was after the Ruby had left. We set sail for Juneau around 2015.

DAY 26 – 23rd August 2017 – Juneau

The Juneau day starts around 0800 and The Star has already been in South Franklin Dock for a couple of hours. Seabourn Sojourn has arrived here from Haines and we are soon to be joined by the Zaandam.
The weather looks decidedly ‘iffy’ as we take a stroll towards downtown whilst waiting to board our tour coach. It’s a 25 minute transfer through downtown and via Egan Drive as we head alongside the Gastineau Channel to Auke Bay.
Here, we board the Allen Marine vessel for the 3 hour whale watching and wildlife quest. There’s a hint of sunshine as we head north along Favorite Channel. This gives us views of Mendenhall Glacier, followed by Herbert and Eagle. In between, we meet the stars of the show as we are entertained by 6 or 7 humpback whales feeding (and perhaps one sleeping). An hour or so is spent being totally enthralled by these majestic creatures. And, by now, we’re being entertained in glorious sunshine!
Soon, it’s onwards to Little Island, the home of the community of stellar sealions. Most are resting on the rocks but some are playing in the water.
Add in, the sighting of oystercatchers nearby and that’s another half hour’s wildlife viewing that makes this place so magical.
Our return coach makes its way back to the ship but not before being trapped in ‘the only construction work on the roads of Juneau’. Its 1545 when we make it back to The Star – only to find that sister ship, Emerald Princess, has docked whilst we’ve been away. That meant the ship’s departure from here was around 1615.
And our wildlife total for the day was not yet complete. We had been promised possible whale sightings after our early dinner.
We were not to be disappointed. A tally of 7 humpbacks (although only one whale’s back close to the ship) and at least 4 Dall’s porpoises. A fitting end to our day’s wildlife quest.

DAY 27 – 24th August 2017 – Ketchikan

We were blissfully unaware of a bear sighting on the shoreline early this morning. Instead, the ship berthing in dock 2 here at 0900 was greeted by rather typical Ketchikan weather. Low cloud and a hint of rain in the air was the order of the day when we went for breakfast at 0940.
Ashore, there were many more salmon in the waters below Creek Street. They were waiting for the current to be less severe before attempting their final push upstream.
A carved sea otter and a bear trinket for the Chrsitmas tree were the resultant purchases from our morning in town.
A leisurely afternoon followed with the Ruby Princess leaving around 1315. The Commodore was on board and he was given a big hand as he passed – accompanied by a rather tuneful exchange of funnel music.

KETCHIKAN, ALASKA 20170824 (52)
The internet café threw down a challenge to two intrepid Platinum Club members. We were only trying to use our complimentary 150 minutes!
A timely reminder on our bed as we retired – clocks forward one hour at 2am.

DAY 28 – 25th August 2017 – At sea

At around 2am the ship moved out of Alaskan waters and back into Canada. We were, of course, tucked up and oblivious to our Alaskan exit!
At around 0930, we ventured to Lido Deck to a grey, wet morning with low cloud obscuring any view. By noon it had brightened a little and Canadian land came into view.
We were now 295 nautical miles from Ketchikan with another 250 to go to Vancouver. We are due shortly after 0700 tomorrow.
Captain ‘Bye Bye’ tells us we should pick up our Canadian pilot around 1330. And we did – and the weather was improving too.
So much so that we spent the final wildlife ‘hotspot’ viewing from up front on Deck 7 and what breeze there was proved bearable. Our efforts were rewarded with whale sightings around 1600. Several humpbacks were on view but the pride of place must go to the 5 orcs that graced us with a swimming display that would not have been seen had we been at our usual starboard midship viewing point. A fitting end to our wildlife spotting. Well, almost – we espied an otter close to shore several minutes later…

DAY 29 – 26th August 2017 – Vancouver

We are due under Lion’s Gate Bridge around 0600 and to be docked alongside in Vancouver shortly after 0700.
In fact, we’re met with an absolutely beautiful morning in Vancouver. Warm sun under a cloudless blue sky. And it’s already around 70 degrees.
Time to disembark from our ‘North to Alaska and back again’ adventure and transfer to Vancouver International Airport for our Air Transat flight TS676 to London Gatwick.

Alaska – The Interior and Beyond…

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After Cruising from Vancouver to Whittier along the inside passage many cruisers return to their home-base from Anchorage. Whilst others take land tours within the interior of Alaska. We decided to do exactly that. The cost of the airfare from the UK to Vancouver is not economical if one only stays a week. So we extended our adventure further …

DAY 8 – 5th August 2017 – Whittier to Denali
Star Princess arrives in Whittier and our Alaskan Rail Road chartered locomotive is waiting with the rake of Princess Cruises (and Holland America Line) coaches for the 9 to 10 hour journey north to Denali.
We  picked up additional crew and supplies as we passed through Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city (but still not its capital) with a population of 300,000. Our high dome top deck seating gave us a panoramic view as we headed away from Anchorage towards Talkeetna and the most scenic stretch of the line as we head towards Denali National Park.
An added bonus today – some very clear views of North America’s highest point, the north and south summits of Mount Denali (20.310 feet). Was this to be a good omen for tomorrow when we would be much closer to the mountain.

 

Eventually, we are met on arrival at Denali depot by a number of coaches for the, all of 8 minutes, transfer from the train to Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge.  The log cabin style accommodation was comfortable enough although the eating arrangements left a lot t0 be desired.
Sadly, the Grizzly Bar and Restaurant was not to live up to Princess’s brand image as we were left to wait, first, for a table then to actually receive our main course, a total of 1 and ¼ hours from joining the queue to our plate reaching our table. Worse, there seemed a lack of concern amongst the waitresses – not to mention the duty ‘manager’ responsible for food and beverages.

DAY 9 – 6th August 2017 – Denali National Park
This was to be a long day but one of the most enjoyable we have experienced here in Alaska. Having listened and learnt from our experience of 2 years ago, we had upgraded our included tour to a full day in the park – the excursion included in our land tour only goes a short distance into the park and best wild life spotting is deeper into the park,,,,,,,  And it was worth the long day. The coach, with our driver Chris, took us 62 miles along the park’s only road, Denali Park Road, to Stoney Hill viewing point for Mount Denali (officially renamed back in 2015 by President Obama from ‘McKinley’).
Not only was Chris an experienced and entertaining host, but he, too, showed the passion for wildlife that is part of our make up.
The day was a sunny one and the views of Mt. Denali along the way were nothing short of spectacular. If possible, even more so than yesterday. Chris made a dash for the viewing point as he sensed cloud would descend to spoil the view. And he was to be proved right.

The wildlife was all we could have hoped for. On the bird front, Northern Grouse, Ptarmigan, and – one of John’s favourites – the Golden Eagle. This distinctive bird had reclaimed its vantage point from those pesky falcons.
The snowshoe hare and the arctic ground squirrel were both busying themselves with the fall approaching.
But we were also here for the larger mammals. And our reward was to see a dozen brown bears (all threesomes with mothers and 2 cubs), moose (one with calf) and caribou. One such caribou, or was it a roadhog, blocked the road ahead as we tried to head eastward back towards the gate. We were forced to just sit, watch and wait, as it took centre stage – or road – for almost half an hour!

DAY 10 – 7th August 2017 – Denali to Fairbanks
Today, its back on board our coach as we head north up the Parks Highway and head for one of our favourite places in Alaska, Fairbanks. We follow the same course as the Alaskan Rail Road and the Tanana river as we make a refreshment stop at Nenana. This is the small community where the residents have a particularly interesting way of raising money for local schooling, a prize draw open to all who try to accurately predict when the ice will finally melt and the river start to flow again in the Spring. It was 12 noon on 1st May last time around.
Not a lot to break the journey to Fairbanks after that. Just a caribou that surprised everybody on board – including our driver – as it belted across the highway just in front of us.
And so the Fairbanks Princess Wilderness Lodge located some 330 miles from Anchorage at the end of the Parks Highway. The 100,000 people in this borough are amongst the friendliest we would meet and the whole place has a lovely feel to it.

DAY 11 – 8th August 2017 – around Fairbanks.
And so to a repeat of another one of our favourite days in Alaska’s interior. The Discovery riverboat trip and Gold dredge.
This has to be one of the best trips organised by Princess. Yes, we’ve done it before – and, yes, we’ll do it again.
We start today just a few minutes from our lodge, as the sternwheeler ‘Discovery III’ waits for us on at its landing on the Chena River.
This vessel holds 900 passengers and has been ploughing the river entertaining its guests for 30 years now just like its predecessors, Discovery I and Discovery II . Both these vessels are preserved alongside here.

20170808 PHOTO UPLOADS 040
The entertainment starts almost immediately with Steve, an experienced bush pilot, dropping in (literally) alongside us in his 1952 ‘piper cub’ float plane.
Then, to the Trail Breaker kennels and probably the most poignant story to come out of our previous trip here 2 years ago, Trail Breakers is the dog sled training area used by Dave Monson and his daughters, including Tekla. They are experienced in dog sledding (or mushing) this national sport of Alaska. Their goals – to win the Iditarod and/or Yukon Quest. But it is the story of Dave’s late wife, Susan Butcher, that tears at the heart strings. Not to mention her little runt, Granite. A dog with seemingly little value who was to prove everyone wrong, apart from Susan that is.
Susan died of leukemia at the age of just 51 but her memory lives on through the book and the statue to ‘Granite’ on the river bank nearby in the especially created native Chena village. Oh, and appropriately, Alaska now celebrates her life – and 4 successes winning the Iditarod – on Susan Butcher Day each year.


In the Chena village we learn how the salmon is handled by the natives, and a whole lot more about their customs, their clothing and housing, in a reconstruction as to what a typical village looks like – and the skins of the animals they have hunted for thousands of years.


Back at the landing point in Fairbanks, we enjoy a beef stew lunch before heading off to Fox to join the Gold Dredge train.
Goldstream Dredge 8 is a step back in time to the days of the gold seeking pioneers. Earl Hughes is on board to play his guitar and fiddle as we head to the dredge and back. At the dredge Yukon Yonder explains the process used in early gold extraction, including the posting of the actual bars of gold using the US mail. None ever went missing despite only being wrapped in brown paper and affixing a stamp – and each worth tens of thousands of dollars.
Our own efforts at panning were even less successful than our last visit. We manage $22 worth of gold between us and Jenny has the bracelet to prove it.
Our final stop is to see, again, the trans Alaskan pipeline which conveys the nation’s oil via am 800 mile pipeline from Prudhoe Bay up in the Arctic Circle to the port of Valdez in SE Alaska. The pipeline runs both over and under the ground and has to contend with the permafrost throughout its route. At its height it was conveying 2 million barrels a day. Not so much nowadays, but it still handles over 500,000 barrels every single day. And as part of the settlement that led to Alaska becoming US state number 49, native Alaskans each receive an annual pay-out from this oil revenue – this year, $1100 per qualifying person.

DAY 12 – 9th August 2017 – Fairbanks
A quiet day relaxing in the lodge.
DAY 13 – 10th August 2017 – Fairbanks to Wiseman.
One of the aims of coming back to this enchanting country was to reach the Arctic Circle and today was the day – or at least it would be our first attempt.
Quite a bright, sunny day in Fairbanks but we were not due to leave until 1900. Ours was the last trip of the day and due to return around 0030 tomorrow morning.
We had our fingers crossed as the day unfolded and were picked up shortly before 6pm to go to the airport.
Unsure of exactly what lay ahead, we were both excited and, perhaps, a little bit anxious given the size of the plane, a 9 seater.
It turned out to be a 9 seater Piper Navajo Chieftain to be piloted by Steve. Steve had 35 years’ flying experience including a long stint flying for Hawaii Air. Nevertheless, there were reports of ‘weather’ in the area around Coldfoot landing strip….
After our safety briefing we realised that there were 3 evening flights by North Alaskan Tours, 2 going to Fort Yukon and ours which was scheduled to land at Coldfoot with 6 of us and the 2 remaining passengers, a Japanese couple with no command of English, who were due to fly even further north to an unpronounceable landing strip near an Athabaskan community.
The profitable extraction of gold is a distant memory today. But the communities of the Arctic Circle had a second lease of life with the discovery of oil off Prudhoe Bay. This lead to the eventual opening of the Dalton Highway through to Prudhoe Bay with Coldfoot a convenient half way point between the Bay and Fairbanks.
That was all part of the background commentary as we headed north over the community of Livengood (with ski slopes nearby – but not a hint of snow lying there as its summer) and following the nearest thing to a ‘road to nowhere’. We could see the Yukon River snaking its way down below us and the Trans Alaskan pipeline in parallel with the Dalton Highway at least where the pipeline was overground. But not much else…
The weather was deteriorating and our chances of landing were not looking good. Steve decided to alter course and head for Bettles landing strip and from there hoped to follow the Yukon River towards Coldfoot. A 150 mile journey was now looking to be well above 200 – if we could get in to Coldfoot.
At N 66 33 00 we crossed the Arctic Circle! Nothing of course to see on the ground to give us a clue – just Steve’s instrument panel duly recorded for posterity by our camera.
We were then to endure ¾ of an hour of not knowing what would happen next as Steve circled hoping for a break in the ‘weather’. He had already decided not to fly the Japanese couple any further north. If he could get in he could get out – once but not twice.
At last, a brief respite and he was going in. At least, that’s what he told us. It looked to us as if he was to land in – or on – the Yukon River. But no, he was in albeit very late and we touched down at Coldfoot airstrip at around 2130. Coldfoot has a year round population of 35 and seems to centre on the truck stop area adjacent to the landing strip. To our pleasant surprise, Steve said we would have the full tour and just leave that bit later coming back. So we were soon to leave the substantial community of Coldfoot for the 14 mile journey to Wiseman. Wiseman is 63 miles inside the Arctic Circle. It has a year round population of 11. Although it is shortly to enjoy a population explosion. A young couple are building their own cabin and the year round total should then explode by over 20% – and reach 13.
Wiseman is a fascinating place and is a living reminder of things we take for granted.
Its small group of log cabins – one of which is unoccupied and is rather grandiosely described as a ‘museum’, share one outside non’flush ‘restroom’. (The nearest ‘flush’ is back in Coldfoot)
There is no internet, cellphone, TV – in fact, no mod cons whatsoever. And no snow. A landline is provided by A T & T’s telephone exchange. And there is a hand written ‘advertisement’ reminding readers that the Chapel service is at 11am on Sunday.
Pleased we went? Of course! Was it what we expected? As Jen put it ‘didn’t know what to expect’…
Back at Coldfoot, take off for Fairbanks was a giant climb of faith – into the clouds. As Steve put it, I am on the runway and there’s nothing out there in the clouds. Oh, except for the mountains…..
High above those clouds, we could see the moon. It cast a yellowy glow across the barren land below.
Just under 2 and ½ hours later we were back in our comfortable beds. Some day!!

DAY 14 – 11th August 2017 – Fairbanks.
A leisurely lie-in and a quiet day. Supper was taken next door at Pike’s Landing.
DAY 15 – 12th August 2017 – Fairbanks.
Ditto – these were contingency days if the weather hadn’t allowed us to fly and  we hadn’t made it to Coldfoot last Thursday evening. We ventured no further than John’s brief stroll to have a look at the airport perimeter.
DAY 16 – 13th August 2017 – Around Fairbanks.
Time to officially start our second ‘back to back’ cruise excursions. This time the pipeline,  gold panning and riverboat ‘Discovery’ were in reverse order with, again, the beef stew in between. Our gold ‘yield’ raised an unprofitable collective total of $12.00 lol.


DAY 17 – 14th August 2017 – Fairbanks to Denali.
Time to bid farewell to Fairbanks after our week long stay. Our coach was again to take us on the Parks Highway. This time we stopped for a break at Tatlanika, a camping and RV park, before crossing the Jack Cogill bridge to the Interior and on to Denali.


DAY 18 – 15th August 2017 – Denali National Park.
Another full day in the park today. Our driver was less keen this time. A little too keen to move on – almost as soon as wildlife had been spotted. Nevertheless, we still kept up the ‘full house’ of larger mammals. Bears, moose and caribou. But not Mount Denali. The weather had changed. And changed quite dramatically in the brief period since we were last here. The summer had a noticeable chill to it as we moved into ‘the fall’.


DAY 19 – 16th August 2017 – Denali to Mount McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge.
Our transfer today was by coach for the 8 minute ride to Denali depot and another chance to ride the Alaskan Rail Road as we headed for Talkeetna, about 4 hours away.
There, we were again met by a convoy of coaches to head out for the 30 mile journey to Mount McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge. Our ‘hippy’ happy coach driving lass did her best to entertain for the 50 minute journey. We were to arrive mid afternoon for the briefest of stays – we were on the road again in the morning.


DAY 20 – 17th August 2017 – Mount McKinley Lodge to Kenai.
Brad arrived with his coach to host the remainder of our land cruise. Our run was to take us around 130 miles to Kenai with a 2 and ½ hour stop over in Anchorage.
We were disappointed to find that the city’s Trolley Bus ‘tour in an hour’ was booked throughout our stay so we were confined to a spot of T-shirt shopping and a quick coke before returning to the coach.


The journey along the Seward Highway is described as one of the most scenic in the whole of Alaska. It didn’t disappoint as, first, we hugged the shoreline of Turnagain Bay and then climbed to a 1’000 foot elevation up in the mountains before dropping down into Cooper Landing and our home for 2 nights, the Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge.
This lodge is restricted to just 86 log cabin style rooms – we didn’t brave the lighting of the wood burning stove although the large log fire in reception was inviting.
And an added bonus. Well, 2 actually. First, the friendly service and, secondly, the best food we’ve had on these land cruises – by far. Prime Rib steak….

 

DAY 21 – 18th August 2017 – Around Kenai Lodge.
A day to enjoy doing nothing – well, almost nothing – in the absolutely idyllic surroundings of this lodge. We were to enjoy 2 local nature walks. The first took us down to the edge of the Kenai river. Jen’s idea of a walk this – use the legs for the downhill section and then, when we had finished at the river’s edge, stroll to the bus stop and ‘ring for the shuttle’ to do the uphill stretch back to base. It appeared less than 5 minutes later. Bliss!!
The second went for a mile or so from the back of our log cabin. No bears, indeed no wildlife at all – apart from a squirrel. Just peace and quiet (except for Jen’s singing which certainly worked in keeping the bears away !!)– and a lot of mushrooms/toadstools.
Back in the lodge, another dose of the service, the reception log fire and 2 plates of Prime Rib. Stories from amongst the fellow guests suggests no whales sighted on tour and one grizzly eating salmon on the river bank seen from the rafting tour.


DAY 22 – 19th August 2017 – Kenai to Whittier.
Brad, the driver,  had a lie in – and so did we. Bags out at 0830, humans ready for 11am. And we were, for the hour long transfer back to Star Princess in Whittier.