Tag: elephants

South Africa Safari 2025 Day 14 – The day of the Eland

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After a superb day yesterday we awoke early ..just before 7am. John made the coffee, while I attached photos to yesterday’s blog….the best time to get a quick upload is around 1-2am…but failing that due to being asleep morning tends to be quicker …just 2/3 minutes per picture. My task completed I met with Josephine who had our laundry all fresh and sweet smelling. I gave her 170 Rands (about £7,50) which made her absolutely beam from ear to ear….it was a small price to pay to save me doing it…I hadn’t quite worked out how to dry it and I’ve never had much success at handwashing🤣🤣

We had our last two yogurts in peace…no vervet monkeys pestering us today…perhaps they have the day off on Saturdays🤣. At the garage the kindly attendant washed and polished all the car windows while filling it up with petrol, we showed our gratitude and away we went..

We had decided to go up to the northern end of the Park , to Punda Maria some 76 kms away. John hasn’t been doing too well at naming first spot of the morning so once again I gave him first choice…he chose Waterbuck, we had seen lots around camp yesterday, and I chose Elephant.

We didn’t see much game for about 20 minutes, probably due to the smell of smoke still hanging thickly in the air from the controlled burn yesterday evening.

Eventually we saw a giraffe…closely followed by a few elephant….oh dear!!! I couldn’t help but remind John that I was now 5-1 up 🤣🤣. it was almost an hour later when we finally saw a Waterbuck 🤣

We saw some great sights on our trip up the road. There were a herd of zebra in the dried river bed. We witnessed them drinking out of some holes in the sand we automatically presumed the elephant had dug. Elephant often do this when water is either dirty or in short supply. However while watching the zebra we witnessed two different ones using their front hooves to dig out the holes further…it made us wonder if they had dug the holes from scratch or were just deepening elephant drinking holes. It was a practice we had not seen before. We sat some time watching these ingenious creatures meet their own needs and helping the youngsters get water.

Further along the road a car was pulled up at the side of the road and we focused where they were looking. There were some buffalo to the right but they weren’t looking there. So I asked the lady who told me there were some Eland….and sure enough in the thick bushes we made out 4 beautiful Eland. We haven’t seen these in Kruger for many many years. They are only inhabitants of the very northern part of the park.

The eland is often referred to as the cow of the wilderness. It is the world’s largest antelope. It has the endurance to maintain a trot indefinitely and can jump as high as 1.5 meters. It is known for its strength, stately presence, and spiral horns. The eland is surprisingly agile and graceful. It is a browser which utilises a wide variety of plant species. It can survive without water for periods of time by eating fruits and using their liquid to sustain it. Wow…were we delighted when we caught this fleeting glimpse.

Further up the road there was a large water tank and trough with zebra and elephants milling around. The very strong smell of decay alerted us to the remains of a dead elephant near by. It looked as if it was just the skin and some bones left.

On a mound of earth near it stood a “Jimmy”…….he had a wee and skirted around the carcass before disappearing into the scrub land. Jimmy Jackal – my nickname for a black backed Jackal is one of my favourite creatures…Cheeky, intuitive, sprightly and intelligent. I was ecstatic as we’ve only seen one other so far this trip.

As we continued we came across a small pocket of water with a lot of zebra, a few waterbuck and a couple of buffalo.

Not far from here, on the opposite side of the road, was a huge amount of White backed vultures in the air, on trees and then we saw even more on the ground . We realised it was a feeding frenzy. The ones on the ground were feasting on the remains of a buffalo. There was even a Maribou stork getting stuck in. We could see no signs of the lions who had presumably killed and had their fill of this beast.

Almost walking behind and round the kill was a huge herd of over 100 buffalo obviously going to the water.

We really were seeing a lot. Continuing on our journey we got to a waterhole….it was literally teaming with activity..zebra, impala, several wildebeest’s, a small herd of elephants and would you believe it a herd of 7 tsessebe. All were strolling in to the waterhole having a drink and wandering back away again. We sat along time watching this amazing sight….

We left the main road which continues up to the border post of Pafuri. We turned left towards the gate and camp of Punda Maria. The vegetation was quite dry and we went a fair way of the 20 kms without seeing anything. Then we had a km or two of successful sightings. A handsome bull nyala stood at the side of the road in the shade with 3 females, a young buck and another bull…they really are a handsome antelope…

The males with their yellow stockings and shaggy brown coat with white stripes and patches,…. The female so much smaller with its tan shaggy coat and barcode type white markings and white dots…such a beautiful couple.

We continued to see zebra, giraffe, impala and the odd elephant.

We turned right up to the camp…..oh dear this really hasn’t moved on in the past 35 years… The two rows of terraced tiny rooms standing adjacent to the communal washrooms with their shower, bath and toilet. The communal kitchen stands next to this. The reception, shop and restaurant all housed in the same building at the far end of the camp.

The only difference I could see over the decades is that it now has a petrol filling station. We browsed the shop, used the toilets and left…this is not a camp we would ever consider staying at…just that little too authentic of a bygone era.

We retraced our steps stopping regularly at sightings both new and already seen on the trip up. The waterhole was still a hive of activity. We ate our rolls watching the feeding frenzy on the buffalo carcass…the Maribou stork was gone but a lapped faced vulture had joined the table…this is a rare sighting these day.

We turned up to the water tank and trough where the dead elephants carcass was…we soon realised we had joined a wake or perhaps a memorial service or celebration of life. There was an eery silence from over 50 elephants, spread around the area, in family groups, a respectful distance from the deceased. We felt very privileged to witness this final farewell attended by so many of the wildernesses giants…..with such a huge gathering one may have expected a lot of noise but there was total silence…..we showed our respect by backing away and leaving them to mourn in peace.

Returning to camp we saw a number of the usual wildlife- elephants, zebra, waterbuck, impala, and just before we got to the camp gate we witnessed a male nyala walk across the dry sandy river bed to a tiny pocket of water.

Our spotting count for the day was massive…99+impala, 7 squirrel, 2 yellow billed storks, 5 wildebeest, 2 ostrich, 1 yellow billed hornbill, 2 red billed hornbills, 19 giraffe, 1 steenbok, 1 black backed jackal, 4 eland, 99+ elephant, 99+ buffalo, 99+ zebra, 2 lapped faced vultures, 5 lilac breasted rollers, 24 WBV, 52 waterbuck, 2 Maribou storks, 29 Chacma baboons, 8 tsessebe, 11 kudu, 3 grey Lourie, 9 nyala, 9 guinea fowl, I bushbuck, 2 bateleur eagles, 1 grey heron.

Back at camp we rested until 17:15 then made the barbecue. There was no outside spotlight on the braii so we decided to do it in daylight. However it was gone 6.00 pm by the time the coals were ready to cook on.

We had 8 chicken skewers… we were having it with noddles and sweet and sour sauce. It would have been very nice if I hadn’t of over cooked the chicken…I was anxious to cook it all the way through and over did it….but the meal was still tasty…the cremated chicken effort took my barbecuing skills back down to 3/10 which even John didn’t disagree with.

He kindly washed up and we played cards while eating some chocolate for dessert….i know I shouldn’t but we’d had very little edible food throughout the day and a little tastebud delight was required…followed by an early night.

South African Safari 2025 Day 10 – The day of the Waterbuck

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After a restless nights sleep, which involved plenty of exercise in the form of getting in and out of bed to turn on and off the air conditioning, we prepared for our journey up to Letaba. The weather was very different to yesterdays….yesterday at 11 am it was 36 degrees Celsius where as today it was only 24 degrees Celsius. Letaba camp is about 90km north of Satara. We haven’t been up this high for probably 10 years….basically because the game has been scarce and sightings were few and far between. However we had been unable to book into Satara ( our preferred area due to prolific game) for longer, as it was full. So being flexible we decided to carry on up the park. John has never been to Punda Marie neither has he stayed in Shingwedzi. It must be about 20 years since I’ve stayed in the later…although for many years prior to this Shingwedzi was my favourite camp and I knew most the staff by name. We decided to stay 2 nights in Letaba before stopping in Shingwedzi for 3 nights….I couldn’t be persuaded to stay in Punda Marie, but have agreed to drive up there so John can have a look at the area. Many years ago I had booked Punda Marie, my son was a youngster and they provided me with a mattress for him on the floor…..the mattress was so old and stained that I wouldn’t even have let my dog sleep on it…disgusting..and it has put me off staying there ever since…I am certain 30+ years later it is absolutely fine but my memories remain vivid so for us it’s a no-no.

Back to the present…we had a meagre breakfast of 2 yogurts each and set off up the tar. The terrain is very different here…wide open flat spaces of nothingness. Our first half an hour was extremely enjoyable with 99+ zebra and wilderness traversing the plains.

After this our sightings became few and far between. We saw a few families of elephants in the almost dried up waterholes the road passes by. A couple of these waterholes had a flurry of mixed sightings. One in particular had zebra, Wildebeest, kudu and impala all streaming in longlines down to and then away from the water. A lovely view.

Some of the little streams of water had waterbuck on the shallow banks.

The Waterbuck is a large antelope, it has reddish brown course fur with white around its nose and eyes and a white collar around its neck. It also has a very distinctive “follow-me” white circle on its rump…many say this looks like a toilet seat or even a target 🤣. Like many antelope the waterbuck male has horns where as the slightly smaller female does not. The waterbuck is a very strong swimmer, it uses its hollow bearded neck hair for buoyancy. Its fur releases a smelly musky oil which repels water. We have also been told on numerous occasions by game rangers that the waterbuck also releases this oil when it is frightened. The lion is its main predator but has learnt to leave it alone because the oil it releases taints its meat which makes it unpalatable.

Our trip continued along the tar. As we drew closer to Letaba we decided to take one of the gravel road loops down and along the Letaba river. We saw zebra, elephant and impala.

We stopped at the edge of the water for elevenses. We are now reduced to park purchased processed cheese on some Woolworths crackers..not too bad. We watched three waterbuck walk along in front of us…they had a youngster with them. We saw a saddle-billed stork waddle along. An enjoyable half hour break from driving.

Our total viewing for the day was 99+ impala, 99+ wildebeest, 99+ zebra, 15 giraffe, 3 warthog, 2 grey Lourie, 6 kudu, 4 hippo, 37 elephants, 28 buffalo, 17 waterbuck, 2 steenbok, 1 bateleur, 1 saddlebilled stork, 1 squirrel.

We arrived at the Letaba reception at around 11.30….. too early for check in which is 2 pm. However we did book on to the sunset drive. We went to wait until check-in at the restaurant and decided to have a toasted bacon sandwich for lunch while overlooking the river, with its many islands which appear during the dry season.

At 2 pm we picked up our chalet key. Once again the chalet was the tired old variety but as it was on the perimeter fence we overlooked the river. It had a closed in veranda, with mosquito netting and wire , which makes you feel as if you are in a cage looking out🤣. This time we had a microwave, toaster, kettle ( thank heavens…can’t wait for a coffee), and full utensils but no hotplate or sink…however there is a large tub for putting your dirty dishes in and carrying to the communal kitchen to wash up….ummmm…no! I can’t see either John or I doing that so I guess it will be the restaurant for the next two nights🤣🤣

We arrived early for the sunset drive and our name was first on the list so we got a choice of where we wanted to sit. The truck was almost completely full, but this time with people who actually wanted to game view and knew the etiquette of the bush.

Off we set with our driver and guide “Happiness” . Unfortunate her name did not deliver. We saw lots of giraffes. Several were stood in “ push-me pull-me” positions. Lots of animals do this in particular zebras and impala, it is so they each look in different directions so they can see if any predators are coming.

The 3 hour drive showed us giraffe and elephant. A rather lovely sighting was a nyala buck and 3 cows in a dried river bed. As we were nearing the end of our drive we saw a black backed jackal, however Happiness was reluctant to reverse the truck so that everyone could see it. Just before we turned in the camp gate 2 hyena appeared, but once again Happiness didn’t reverse even though most the truck were asking her to….a little disappointing…..so for the first time this trip we decided not to tip….we don’t believe in tipping when it’s not earnt or deserving.

Squirrel, kudu, Wildebeest, Buffalo and Elephant.

We headed for the restaurant and once again John had Venison pot pie and I had roasted chicken and …yes I did have a Savannah light🤣

The night saw us playing cards in the cage before an early to bed was required.

South Africa Safari 2025 Day 9 The day of the Blue Wildebeest

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We set off from Lower Sabi to Satara a 138 km drive. Taking the direct route on the tar road led us to cross The Sabi river and enjoy its multitude of various mammals, reptiles and bird life…it did not fail to deliver.

We continued up the H10 viewing large herds of Blue Wildebeest. We were delighted as the last twice we have visited they have been few and far between. Our count soon recorded 99+ of both the wildebeest and its companions the zebra. The Blue Wildebeest is a dark grey colour often with a brown sheen, but more often it stands out looking jet black amongst the dry landscape. Both sexes have horns and its tail is horselike. They like the zebra are grazers…..our former sunset drive guide told us they tend to group with zebras because there is safety in numbers. However many years ago a very knowledgable game ranger told us that the zebra and wildebeest eat different sections of the grass. The zebra eats the top sweeter grass and leaves behind bacteria in its saliva. The wildebeest eats the lower part of the grass and the zebras bacteria helps with the wildebeests digestive system. Who knows which of these philosophies are correct.

The road takes you up and over an escarpment. From the top you can see for literally miles and miles in every direction. There is not a building, industry, road or track, other than the one we were on, to be seen…this really is raw, unspoilt wilderness – untouched by humans and their progression of time …it takes your breath away …miles and miles of nothingness except nature at its very best…magnificent, this is why we keep returning…unless you’ve seen it you can’t imagine the feeling this vista gives you.

We had nearly reached the H1-4 at Tshokwane picnic/ rest site, when we saw a few cars on a bridge. Looking along the almost dry river bed on a low lying branch of a big tree was a leopard. It was in a typical, textbook leopard pose.

We stopped at Tshokwane for the toilets, a look around the shop and a stretch of our legs.

Not long after this we spotted a hyena cooling off in a muddy pool. We sat watching it while we ate our cheese sandwiches. This is the usual way in which hyena stay cool. Further on toward Satara we came across a big herd of buffalo.

During our day we saw 99+ impala, 99+ elephant, 10 hippo, 3 crocodile, 15 waterbuck, 2 warthog, 1 leopard, 99+ Wildebeest, 8 kudu, 99+ zebra, 4 vervet monkeys, 23 Chacma baboons, 2 nyala, 2 bateleur, 1 spotted hyena, 50 buffalo, 3 ground hornbill, 4 quail, 1 lion, 1 black backed jackal.

We arrive at Satara slightly after 2pm….the booking in queue was about 20/25 people long. So while John queued I nipped into the shop opposite to pick up bread, cheese, fruit, yogurts, eet-sum-mor biscuits , water, chocolate and crisps….alas it was very badly stocked, no bread or fruit at all, I came out with water, crisps, eet-sum-mor biscuits and chocolate a really great combination for someone who tries to eat healthily and reduce the sugar intake🤣🤣🤣…having paid the non smiling assistant I joined John in the queue.

We were eventually greeted by the stern check-in lady…I tried all the usual niceties but failed to raise a smile…but we did get our room key….geeeze F144 chalet was defiantly a museum piece…I don’t think it had been updated since I first stayed in Kruger in 1989🤣 The curtains almost met in the middle on one window the other had a foot gap…hey ho I could be accused of flashing if anyone was looking in but what the heck🤣 The air conditioner was an original model which rattled so loudly it even smothered the rumblings of the fridge it was next to….It had only three working settings, on, cold or hot. The cold worked very well blasting the pillows on each bed with winds from the Arctic…unfortunately there was nothing in between so I spent most the night turning it off, dozing and sweating and then turning it back on again. The fridge and the air conditioner took up the only plug socket apart from the one over the sink…so we plugged in the extension lead and hoped we didn’t electrocute ourselves during the night.🤣

Our late afternoon 2 hour drive was of course along the S100. This is a favourite dirt road we have driven hundreds of times because it always shows us the unexpected . We had been going on it for about 3/4 of an hour and seen very little, a few wildebeest, zebra, impala, ground hornbill, a giraffe and a massive tusker of an elephant who stood hidden in a bush next to the road and nearly gave me a heart attack when it suddenly moved. We asked several other vehicles coming in the other direction if they had seen much but they said nothing, it was very quiet. We decided to U-turn.

We were just saying that it was the first time ever the S100 had failed us when!! …….both myself and a car coming towards us jammed on our breaks….walking out from behind some tall grass across the road in front of us was a massive male lion. We sat and watched him for 3 minutes before he disappeared from sight again. We pulled up alongside the other car to compare our elation, they had actually seen a lioness cross first of all….wow…the S100 never fails to deliver the unexpected.

We headed back on the H1 and past Satara camp gates, deciding to head up the tar for 30 minutes and see what was about. It was prolific with elephants, zebra, wildebeest and impala. Just as we were about to turn around we saw a black backed jackal…these are one of my favourites.

We returned to camp highly satisfied with our days game viewing and a magnificent sunset.

We went straight to the Cattle Baron restaurant. We were as usual greeted with a smile and highly attentive service. Thank you Permission you certainly earnt your big tip….we thoroughly enjoyed our Chateaubriand flamed in Brandy followed by ice cream and chocolate sauce…naughty but nice…and to be even naughtier I had my first Savannah Light of the holiday…it all came to the princely sum of £32…..

We retired to our museum chalet for a few games of cards and an uncomfortable nights sleep.

South African Safari 2025 Day 8 The day of the Hippo

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We had a full day driving around the Lower Sabi area. A leisurely breakfast took place on our veranda, watching, elephant, hippos and giraffe zig zag across the river munching on the reeds and grasses and cooling off in the water…..what a splendid view…how privileged we are to be able to experience the uninhibited bushlands where gods creatures roam free and all wildlife lives its natural life in its natural habitat.

Our chalet/hut was still delightful although the shower wasn’t quite as good as the previous days….very hot, hard to get cool enough and fairly low pressure…but it sufficed.

We headed up the tar road to Skakuza, because John had ear-wagged our neighbours saying there was a lion kill. We didn’t see any lions but we did see the buffalo carcass with numerous vultures and other raptures feeding on it..near by waiting patiently was a hungry crocodile.

We drove a few more kilometres further down the tar before turning back. We crossed the Sabi on the tar road to Tshokwane and took the first right hand dirt road which loops around.

From the low pontoon bridge we saw numerous hippos, some young, some showing that they needed the dentist, some grazing, some sleeping in large pods and some just wallowing in the water…A hippo can live for an average of 35 years in the wild. A male hippo can weigh up to 4500kg and a female 1600kg. They walk under water and can remain submerged for up to 5 minutes. It is responsible for the most human fatalities and injuries and is therefore known as the most dangerous mammal in Africa. We saw 99+ hippos throughout the day.

Our loop on the dirt road showed us 99+ impala, 20 WBV, 10 crocodile, 99+ elephant, 10 giraffe, 1 African Fish Eagle, 1 yellow-billed hornbill, 2 lilac breasted roller, 9 waterbuck, 55 Wildebeest, 31 zebra, 6 nyala, 3 kori bustard, 1 steenbok, 2 guinea fowl

We stopped at Mlondozi picnic and viewing point. It really is a lovely spot meticulously kept by Sipho who insisted we wrote in his compliments book when I went to thank him for doing such a great job.

We returned to Lower Sabi and ate our cheese sandwiches overlooking the waterhole just outside the camp gates…more hippos were floating around…some people call them a “thunder” of hippos but we prefer the collective noun “a pod of hippos”.

After a rest back at camp we made our way to the car park. We had booked a Parks Board Sunset Drive. It was in the big truck, a 24 seater. I must say we’ve had better drives…there was a group of 11 Finnish men and boys…….we have never been on a Safari truck with such loud, rude people. The youngest child of about 12years of age didn’t know how to talk and shouted the whole time…I shushed him several times. The men stood up most the time. I demanded that the two in front of me sat down stating quite clearly that we had all paid the same and all had the right to view…..grrrr …when one from the back decided to stand at the front I snapped “ sit down we can’t see” he proceeded to squat in the gang way. When he finally went back to his seat I sat sideways with my legs across the gangway so he couldn’t pass by. When we saw a herd of buffalo I stood up so he couldn’t pass or step over my legs…it was not a pleasant experience. We did see a beautiful male nyala I said stop to the driver who had missed it…unfortunately the chi,d decided to repeat my request and his shouting sent the poor bull scarpering, so no opportunity for a picture. Our driver and guide was quite apologetic when we said goodbye. We still tipped him because it wasn’t his fault these rude people had ruined the drive and he would not have been trained in how to deal with loud mouthed Finnish men.

We ate in the restaurant after our drive. It’s a Mug and Bean so John had a jalapeño big burger and I had buttermilk chicken burger…..another nice day ended with us playing cards on our veranda.

Another special moment – Leopards in Sri Lanka

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Let me say at the outset that Africa is in my blood. It’s our ‘go to’ holiday to experience the adrenalin rush of sighting something both rare and spectacular! In my book, there’s nothing to beat seeing a pack of Wild Dogs out on a hunt or a Cheetah trying to finish its meal before another predator comes in for the steal.

Then there’s the Leopard. One of nature’s masterpieces, not least because of its ability to blend in with its surroundings. It has the perfect camouflage.

So why am I talking about Leopards under a Sri Lanka heading?

After our stunning adventures in Africa in 2023, we decided to experience something different at the start of 2024. Sri Lanka was our choice, and it didn’t disappoint!  A little research before heading out on safari on this lovely island told us that both Yala and Wilpattu National Parks were ‘good for Leopards’. There are no Lions in Sri Lanka, and unlike in India there are no tigers either, so the Leopard is therefore very much the king of the jungle here.

If the theory of wildlife experts is to be believed, these two national parks have the highest density of leopards in the world. That may be so, but Leopards can be well hidden, and as we set out on our safaris we realised the dense vegetation, the jungle, of Sri Lanka’s parks was not going to make it any easier than in Southern Africa. We know from experience that sometimes you can safari for days on end and not have the privilege of even the briefest of glimpses of a Leopard.

What was the chance of seeing one on a full day in Wilpattu? This park is quieter than Yala and, therefore, I felt it would give us a better chance. Our driver new our mission and, with our travel guide Suminda, we embarked on our full day’s drive. There were hardly any other safari vehicles around so little or no ‘intelligence’ to aid our quest.

It was to be around the middle of the day when we ‘got a sniff’. A tip off from another driver led us to one of the best-known locations for Leopards. We were rewarded with a clear sighting of one of these most beautiful animals and, what’s more, we were able to watch it at close quarters on and off for almost an hour…………It strutted about both in a clearing and in the jungle….at to one point it made a half hearted attempt to chase a wild boar…………And that familiar African ‘adrenalin rush’ came flooding back!! We felt very privileged.