South Africa Safari Day 20 The day of the hyena

We got up early 6.30am, showered, put on relatively clean clothes🤣🤣, breakfasted, made a pack up lunch and got on our way. It was our last day in Satara…tomorrow we move down to the south of Kruger to Pretoriuskop.

We headed down the tar…I selected zebra today and John selected wildebeest as first spot. It was a cold grey morning a real contrast again from yesterday’s sunshine and heat. We drove some time before seeing some Zebra …sorry John 8-4 to me🤣

Today we had decided to take the S126 which cuts across to the Orpen tar road. It’s a lovely scenic route, with chances to see lots as it runs alongside a twisting and turning river, which has patches of water in it.

We saw a huge amount of varied game around a waterhole…elephants, wildebeest, zebra and impala…a lovely wildlife picture…

We travelled on, the road was not great…unless the parks board spends some money on upkeep of their dirt roads, it won’t be so long before only 4×4 vehicles will be able to handle them.

We came across 2 big lone male buffalo, called dagger boys.

As we slowly picked our way down a hill I suddenly stopped, asked John for the binoculars….there about 400m on the far side of the river was the derrière of a large rhino. It stopped its route march and turned sideways giving us a wonderful view…this is really a majestic creature, reminding us of prehistoric times. A few moments later he continued his route march and completely disappeared from sight…how lucky were we…even John had to marvel at how I had seen it….these eagle eyes still work when they have to🤣🤣

We travelled on to the picnic spot….its unfortunate that I needed the loo…a long drop…defiantly not to be recommended…not only did I have to contend with that but the door had no lock and a lady walked in and caught me on the throne🤣🤣….never mind, I’ll never see her again and I hope I didn’t traumatise her too badly🤣🤣

Back on the road we crossed the main Orpen road. Had a Quick Look in the dam…the hippos and crocodile were all happy and we continued onto the dirt road which comes out on the tar north of Satara…..This road had been graded so it gave us a more comfortable ride.

We passed elephants, impala, zebra, wildebeests and giraffe.

……before long we saw a Kori bustard…its thin greyish neck made us think it was a female as it was very different from the two males we’d seen several days ago.

Around the next bend there were 3 more Kori bustards…a really lovely sight.

Further up the track a car stopped us and asked what we had seen…they were as excited as we were by the Kori bustard.

They told us of a leopard sighting just a few minutes away. However when we turned back onto the Olifants Satara tar road there were about a dozen cars all vying for position…we asked 3 different cars and none had actually seen the leopard…the 4th car said it was no longer viewable as it had laid in the long grass..another almost saw it, moment…..!!!!

We returned to camp and decided to go to the Cattle Baron for brunch rather than eat our sandwiches, they would be ok tomorrow…brunch was great

After a rest we headed out for our usual S100, H6 circuit. The cool, dull overcast weather meant we only really saw groups of the plains animals- zebra, wildebeest, impala and a scattering of giraffe and a few largish herds of elephant.

On the H6 there were some WBV on the giraffe carcass, which is a sure sign that the lions have left …as seen in the pictures above…..( I haven’t worked out yet how to move a picture when I put them in the wrong place !🤣)

We stopped at the hyena den and sat patiently. It was very quiet and our patience paid off as the mum and 2 pups appeared.

Hyenas are nocturnal and have interesting social structures. Their clans are led by a female matriarch, mostly because hyena females have three times more testosterone than males, meaning they are physically stronger and have more aggressive temperaments. The highest-ranked individual in a hyena clan is the alpha female, followed by her cubs. Hyenas are Intelligent, curious, and opportunistic in matters of diet, they are known as the vacuum cleaners of the bush…basically they eat all the left overs from other animals kills….that doesn’t mean they won’t kill something themselves, but they tend to be scavengers.

We watched on our own for quite some time before continuing back to camp.

Our count for the day was 99+ impala, 99+ zebra, 9 vervet monkeys, 1 red billed hornbill 3 lilac breasted rollers, 23 giraffes, 5 yellow billed hornbills, 4 Kori bustards, 7 grey Lourie, 2 bateleur eagle, 2 buffalo, 24 Chacma baboons, 1 rhino, 88 elephants, 1 crocodile, 6 hippo, 4 hooded vultures, 1 tawny eagle, 1 martial eagle, 58 waterbuck, 1 steenbok, 9 warthogs, 99+ wildebeest, 2 WBV, 3 hyena, 7 kudu, 3 guinea fowl……not a bad days viewing.

We returned to the Cattle Baron for a light supper then an early night.

Packing for South African Safari 2025

I am not very succinct with my ramblings about what we take but I’ve started with the odds and sods which make life easier…then I’ve sub headed the clothing, electrics, essentials and other bits….. hope you find it helpful.

We are intending to cook quite a bit ourselves, so this does need planning. South Africans tend to be big on barbecues or braii as they call it. So the first thing we pack is a self contained barbecue set….very cheap on amazon about £20. It contains everything you need…tongs, long fork, metal slicer, wire brush etc…I’ve taken the skewers out and replaced them with wooden ones and I’ve taken the chefs knife and the salt and pepper out because I don’t think the airport scanning machine will like them much. We’ve also packed oven gloves, dish cloth and tea towel two melamine plates, bowls & dishes, two knives, forks and spoons and two cups. Most the accommodation in Kruger provides this if you book the right type, they also provide a fridge, sink, hot pate, and plough dish barbecue with a grilling grid which you can raise and lower ( hence the need for oven gloves) …. But we booked late and took what we could get not all our accommodation offers this although all has the barbecue.

You could buy most of this fairly cheaply when you’re there. We are fortunate in that we have friends in Johannesburg and we leave a cool box and pillows at their house. We will leave the melamine plates etc there when we return.

You may well ask why pillows? Because the ones in Kruger all seem to me lumpy chip foam which balls together to make hard lumps or just one piece of foam…they are very uncomfortable so we have bought 2 luxury pillows from Mr Price…very cheap you could give them to one of the camps cleaners when you leave…we take pillow cases with us.

What else do we take…..even though September and October are the start of spring it’s still chilly at night and we like to take The Parks Board sunset and night drives on their open safari vehicles. We take jeans, layer t-shirt and long sleeved top and a light weight fleece jacket and a scarf, they often give you a rug. Then we can start in t-shirt and gradually put layers on.

Food wise we take a plactic caddy of coffee and sweeteners. We take a flask which we fill with ginger cordial……that’s what I drink all the time and you can’t buy it there, We decant the cordial into empty coke bottles when we get there…then we can use the flask for its true purpose and have hot coffee when we have early morning self drive game viewing……..nothing better than having a coffee while watching a waterhole or a lion having its breakfast 😁😁

Electrics…ummm always a hard one as there is often only one plug socket in the room which has the aircon plugged into it…so…we have a South African double socket. This way we can keep the aircon on and still have a socket. We have 2 South African to Uk plugs ( just incase we find another socket …we are always optimistic 🤣🤣 )And we take an extension lead with 4 uk sockets and a multi usb charging socket….yup it seems a lot but we have to charge 2 cameras, 2 iPads, 2 iPhones, 1 laptop for downloading all pictures from both cameras everyday….then there’s the occasional toothbrush charger, hairdryer etc… There are usually sockets outside where the kettle can be plugged in…but BE WARNED you can’t leave anything unattended…not even while you nip to the loo because most the camps have monkeys and they will steal anything…the last thing you want to see is a vervet monkey up the tree with your camera battery or trying to use your iPhone 🤣🐒🐒 We’ve seen it happen. I’ve even lost a yogurt from the table while I turned my back to get another one out of the fridge……please don’t encourage these little tinkers because when they get too cheeky the Rangers have to cull them, so you’re signing their death warrant.

Clothing…this is what we take..

3 pairs of long trousers each – to mosquito- proof our legs in the evenings

3 pairs of shorts each

6 T-Shirts each

12 pairs of pants each

6 pairs of socks each- we only wear them in the evening so we wear them twice.

5 bras – me only🤣

1 pair of sandals each

I pair of closed walking shoes each – sketchers

I long sleeved top- polo or thicker blouse

1 fleece each

1 scarf and fingerless gloves- I don’t like to be cold🤣

Other must take with us –

First aid/ medical bag containing plasters, antiseptic cream, cold remedy, antibiotics, moisturiser, eye drops, Imodium, senakot, paracetamol, bite ease/ anthisam cream, antihistamines.

Shampoo and conditioner

Toiletry bag

Travel hairdryer

SA maps, Kruger guide book, animal and bird ID books- all can be bought there but as we have them we take them with us.

Washing detergent – fairy pods. Some of the camps have washers and driers…if you’re lucky they’ll be working and take R5 coins….but if you’re not lucky the cleaning lady or man at the laundry may do your washing for you. We generally drop it off in the morning, go for a drive and pick it up later. We’ve always done this and we pay some money up front and promise the rest when we pick up…we give a big tip and a couple of washing pods which surprisingly always seems to bring a bigger smile than the money.

Binoculars…2 pairs if you have them…but I dropped one of ours and I haven’t replace them as we tend to use our camera lenses .

Torches…a must as electricity is unreliable

Money – we take Rands with us because although a lot of places do take cards, the toll roads do not take international cards. Sometimes the camps in Kruger have electricity outages and although they have generators these don’t usually allow the internet to be connected…so you can get petrol but unless you’ve got cash you won’t be able to pay for it until the mains electricity returns which can take 6 hours….a waste of good game viewing time. You’ll also need cash for tips etc. There is a cash point in Skukuza Camp which works if they are on mains electricity.

Well!, I think that’s about it..we fit all this into 2 medium sizes cases both weigh about 20kg. We also take two hand luggage’s which are small wheeled rucksacks and contain our cameras and mine also contain 4 pairs of knickers because I am neurotic about our cases getting lost/ delayed and not having a pair of clean knickers 🤣🤣 The day ruck sacks come in handy for putting clothing layers in when we go on the Parks Safari vehicles.

Hope that helps with your packing…actually apart from the barbecue equipment the space it takes up we would usually use for smart evening clothes but we don’t need them on Safari…..our packing tends to be much the same wherever we go in the world.

The next time I blog we will be in South Africa 👍