Day 11 & 12- Nata Lodge and The Sua (Sowa) Pans

Day 11

We prepared to leave Maun…..we paid the food, drink and laundry bill at The Safari Lodge Maun…the accommodation had been pre-paid…we were a little aghast at the laundry bill and made a mental note not to do it here again if we ever re-visited. The hotel had been great…we had, had a deluxe double which had a little patio overlooking the almost dried up river bed which was great for people watching and watching cars being washed in the tiny pockets of water which remained…the Botswana people are never short of enterprising ideas to solve environmental problems…

From Maun we drove back towards Kasane, we were stopping for two nights at Nata lodge, which sits on the Sua (Sowa) Pans . We had often thought of doing this, when we used to drive through to Chobe from Mafeking or Johannesburg in South Africa. It had quite a reputation as being a nice place,  but we were always in a rush to get to our beloved Chobe. 

Nata Lodge is in the same group of hotels as Chobe Safari Lodge, the group is known as “Under one Botswana Sky” …the three hotels which we are familiar with in this group all charge much the same for accommodation and activities. 

The drive from Maun to Nata was uneventful, a few herds of elephant drinking out of water pipe access holes, a few herds of zebra on the road side, a stray Jackie strutting his stuff down the middle of the road….just the sort of thing you expect to see on one of the countries main tarred roads!!! 

On arriving at Nata Lodge we booked in and went to our room. It was a wooden structure on stilts. Although quite dark inside it was similar in layout to the Chobe Safari lodge rooms- large bed, desk, arm chair, open bathroom area with sink and freestanding bath, separate toilet and separate shower. The only difference was that the shower was outside…which is great when the weather is fine but not so great when it rained cold, dirty/sandy rain. I guess it exfoliates your skin all over your body fairly cheaply and gives your hair a golden sand tint!!!!!! 

We rested during the afternoon, rather frustrated that we couldn’t get WiFi in our accommodation neither the hotel,or our own router gave us a signal.  We finally went to the bar area where we managed to get an intermittent signal. We had our evening meal in the open restaurant.

It was fairly full of a large tour groups, who seemed to be given preference over us lone travellers…….This continued over the two evenings and mornings we were there…we defiantly felt like second class citizens.. a never again experience, after all we paid more for our meals than tour groups did and we should have been given good attentive service.

Day 12 

Today we relaxed, spending our time reorganising the packing, photos, writing blogs and finally going to the bar to upload using the weak internet…John walked the grounds photographing birds and we both became fascinated by a woodpecker in a nearby tree. 

At 3.00 pm we climbed aboard a Safari vehicle, with 4 other couples. There were 2 other vehicles full of a big group of German tourists. We were going on to the Sua ( Sowa) pans where there is a resident large flock of Flamingos, along with some pelicans, and the usual wildebeest and zebras who live and transverse the pans.

We were allowed to alight from the vehicles and walk to the edge of the lake. Although the massive flamboyance of flamingos was a distance away it was a truly fabulous sight, a hue of pink. Some were flying in and out, pelicans were closer by observing us. 

It was idyllic, or at least it would have been if it hadn’t been for the two other vehicles of very noisy tourists who set up a cocktail bar between the Safari vehicles and loudly proceeded to have copious amounts to drink.

They continued to party for well over an hour, even dancing…we asked our driver if we could please go but he said not until all our group was on the vehicle…so 3 other couples and us waited for one couple to finish their party…we returned to the lodge, passing more wildebeest as the sun went down …..

We were quite disgruntled, as this noisy, boozy crowd was well below the standard of Safari we expect…we were so disappointed. 

Our disappointment continued at supper, when we were given a table in a very dark area, the service was so slow we had to keep asking..’can we place our order please’, ‘Excuse me please but where’s our food’, ‘could we see the dessert menu please’, ‘Excuse me, is our dessert coming before breakfast!’ ……there was another couple of independent travellers who also seemed to be invisible…….We returned to our room wondering why we had booked in here…this was defiantly a never again experience…

Celebratory Safari – Planning Document 2023 Botswana & South Africa – 6 weeks

Botswana and South Africa Safari MAY 5th – JUNE 12th 2023

DateDayPlaceAddress/ReferencePrice £
05/05/23 HomePick up Kilroy Cars 4.00pm airport transfer£140
Heathrow 22.30 flightVS449 Economy Dream Delight including 1 nt B&B Garden Court Joburg, Airlink return flight to Botswana, 1 nt Chobe Safari lodge dbb£3159.99
06/05/23 Joburg 10.25 Garden Court OR Tambo International Airport 2, Hulley Road Isando 1627 South Africa
Free airport/hotel transfers  
 
7/05/23   Or Tambo Joburg to Kasane 11.50Terminal B 9.50am check in  arrive Kasane 1.35pm 
Kasane Avis car hirePick up car at Avis 14.00 pick up  Toyota Urban Add additional insurance. Return 14.00 on 18/05/23  £449.00
BWP 7,362.07
 Chobe Safari LodgeChobe Safari Lodge Book in
Afternoon Safari
 £70.00
08/05/23 Gweta Lodge  Gweta Lodge Including B & B & Lunch & buffet Dinner Full Day trip Ntwetwe Pan + Meerrkat Nxai Pan full day trip The trips may have to be paid in US$1000each – cash£1141
BWP18725.00
09/05/23 Full Day trip Ntwetwe Pan + Meerrkat£778
10/05/23 Rest Day 
11/05/23 Nxai Pan full day trip£778
12/05/23 Maun LodgeBed and Breakfast  £400
BWP6.560.00
13/05/23 Day trip to Moremi US$800 paid in US$ cash£622
14/05/23 Rest Day 
15/05/23 3 hour boat cruise US$1000  paid in US$ cash£778
16/05/23 Nata LodgeSpoke to Brenda as invoice had 1 night but charged 2 nights which we wanted Colleen confirmed in email. Night drives are available book when there£160
BWP 2620.00
17/05/23 
18/05/23 Avis KasaneReturn car to Avis by 14.00 Chobe Safari lodge collected and transferred us. 
Chobe Safari LodgeBooked with booking.com 8 nights Breakfast and Dinner To pay at Chobe£1411
BWP = 23,168,50
19/05/23 Pay for ½ day Safari at lodge negotiated with Dorkus £280 per 6hrs for 6 days & One boat trip £70£1680

£70.00
20/05/23  
21/05/23  
22/05/23  
23/05/23  
24/05/23   
25/05/23   
26/05/23 Kasane AirportAirlink 4Z307 Booking ROU12K arrive Joburg 3.55pm 15.55 
Johannesburg AvisCollect car from Avis – Booked Rave but requested Toyota Urban ask for screen and tyres and super waiver  £1084.44
  Friends2 Nights at Friends 
27/05/23 
28/05/23 Kruger Berg-En-DalDrive to Kruger National Park Berg-en-dal  BA3U  All Accomodation £890
29/05/23 
30/05/23 Kruger Lower SabieLower Sabie  BD2
31/05/23 Kruger OlifantsOlifants NG2U perimeter next to renovations
01/06/23 Kruger SataraSatara BD2
02/06/23 
03/06/23 
04/06/23 
05/06/23 Kruger PretorioskopPretorioskop BG4
06/06/23 
07/06/23 Kruger Berg-en-DalBerg-En-Dal BA3U Perimeter
08/06/23 
09/06/23 JoburgHotel to be booked – City Lodge Morningside Meet with Family£45.00
10/06/23 Friends Staying with friends 
11/06/23 Joburg OR Tambo InternationalReturn car to Avis 4.00pm 16.00  Virgin Atlantic  Delight VS450  6.50 pm 
12/06/23 London Heathrow5.00am Kilroy Cars Airport to home transfer  £140
Total£13,796.43

Botswana – Day 9 & 10 – Rest, reflect and Moremi Game Reserve.

Day 9 

We spent day 9 in the Safari Lodge hotel in Maun. The previous day had been wonderful, but it was a long tiring day. To get maximum enjoyment out of our adventure we knew we needed to put in some “nothing “ relaxation days …this was one of these. We slept in late, prepared the bag to send to 5he laundry and reflected on our previous day….. The Okavango is an extremely expensive adventure, camping makes it slightly cheaper but even that’s probably one of the most expensive camping experiences anyone can have. Mobile camping with a company also reduces the cost slightly but John and I are no campers. It was the same as in the Pans area, unless you are an extremely competent 4×4 driver and know how to get through soft sand tracks which can leave all 4 tyres spinning helplessly, you need to go with a Safari company or hire both a vehicle and a driver……( for those who think they are good enough to self drive don’t forget to let your tyres down ….hard tyres really churn the sand up so always drive this type of road with soft tyres. One of the reasons it’s so expensive here is that with both the two safaris we did in the pans and the two from Maun you have to either be a party of 4 or pay for 4 people…..it seemed the majority of companies were charging US$250 per person and all insisted on a minimum of 4 people…..this is what makes it so expensive when it’s just the 2 of us…most people on normal budgets just find the cost prohibiting……..we had decided that this was a very special occasion so it was worth “splashing the cash”.

We updated our Facebook pages, what’s append home and prepared for the following day. We had agreed with Monametsi that we would have a full day in Moremi Game reserve. He had kindly dropped the price to US$800 for the day.

Day 10

We were stood outside the hotel at 5.00am, ( an hour which doesn’t appear on my clock at home, unless we are jet-lagged !!!), waiting for Monametsi to arrive and for one of his Safari vehicles ……time was passing at 5.50am we were about to give up our wait…besides it’s cold even with fleeces, scarfs and gloves at that time of the morning…..just as we were about to go back to bed! …the Safari vehicle arrived…. It turned out the battery had been stolen during the night so the driver had put his car battery on it but that wouldn’t allow us to stop and start with confidence. So we were to set off and wait at the end of the tar for Monametsi to catch us up with a new battery, our breakfast and lunch…. Which is exactly what happened although the blankets were forgotten and we were very cold…

With new battery fitted off we went again…before we got to the Reserves gate we saw a variety of wildlife both dead and alive……this included the sad sight of an elephant who had got stuck in the mud of a waterhole and died, another elephant was showing its last respects. 

Once inside Moremi Reserve we stopped at the gate again and had breakfast, used the ablution block and watched some squirrels playing and hornbills scrounging bits of dropped food.
Then we were off on our day of sightseeing and wildlife spotting. We saw copious amounts of Lechwe, Tsessebe, ( both of these we rarely see so we were delighted to see such big herds)

We also spotted elephants, zebra, giraffe, warthog, hippos, and lots of birds however our search for lions was in vein.

The reserve was quiet and, other than at the main gate, we saw very few other vehicles all day. Some of the tracks we traversed looked hardly used and were extremely overgrown. This added to the experience as we parted the grasses, it was almost off-roading, and the air of suspense hung around as as we scoured the landscape for exciting wildlife spots.

We pulled up under a tree out of, the now, hot sun for lunch……Days like this need either a strong bladder or nerves of steel if you risk nipping behind the bush !!! We once again passed through the South Gate as we made our exit before the 6.00pm deadline.

It was a lovely day, we returned about 8 pm and had a nice supper in the hotel…..if we were honest the day probably wasn’t worth the money but it was an area we had never explored before and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing different types of landscape and terrain as well as the wonderful wildlife.
We once again ate in the restaurant. We chatted happily to a newly retired Doctor and his wife both of whom were from England. They were on a very interesting ‘Intrepid Traveller’ Overland tour from Cape Town to Victoria Falls. The itinerary was truly adventurous and we might have been interested in something like this in the future if it hadn’t been for the couple saying how exhausting it was….this is often a problem on guided organised tours, they rarely put the much needed rest days in, which I prefer to call laundry and catch-up days…or just sleep-in days…..it’s really worth remembering this, I’d learnt my lesson on a trip to India where we’d gone a straight 7 days of sightseeing and moving on , we’d comeback needing a holiday !!!!!

Botswana -Day 7 & Day 8 -Maun & The Okavango

Day 7 We said goodbye to Gweta Lodge and continued our trip by driving on to Maun. We spent a short time in town buying a data SIM card to put in our mobile router so we could have WiFi….we were advised to get an orange sim card…ummm!…what a waste ……it worked in Maun but nowhere else. I had booked us into Maun Lodge for 4 nights. It was expensive at around £96per night B&B  but then Maun is the 5th largest town in Botswana and the ‘Gateway to The Okavango Delta’. I hadn’t booked any activities in advance as it was our first time in Maun. When we got there I googled Safari companies because the hotel’s activities desk was very expensive. We hired a company called Moonstroll. They were very professional and Monametsi who owned the company met us in our hotel that evening and talked through our requirements. 

Day 8 We liked the fact that Monametsi turned up at 5.30am and took payment once we were on the Safari vehicle. They only took cash US$ or he would have taken Rands and he appreciated we weren’t going to pay in advance as we didn’t know whether this unknown person would pitch up or just take our money …… it was his idea to do it this way to give us confidence….they provided us with rugs, breakfast and lunch and a snack plus soft drinks and loads of water…We were off to Moremi Game Reserve and on the far side a place called 3rd Bridge which is the only place to get a boat from, at this time of the year, to go out on the Okavango Delta……..it cost US$1000 for the day………was I excited or not!!!! My dream was about to come true…I’d always wanted to do this from the age of 24 when I first visited Africa….but it is so expensive I had never been able to justify spending this sort of money on one of my ‘Must do before I die’ wishes.

Wrapped up warmly we headed off towards Moremi Game reserve. The start  of the road is tar, which we speed along for about 40 minutes and then a further 30 minutes on a gravel road and then an hour and a half on very soft sand road. We saw a variety of wildlife and birds as we got closer to the Southern gate of Moremi.

On arriving at the south gate we used the washrooms and sat and ate our breakfast before embarking on a three hour game viewing drive through the reserve before getting to the boat station at Third Bridge. 

Here we met Captain Moses and boarded his flat bottom, pontoon like boat, along with our Safari guide Kennedy. 

Once all our picnic hampers, drinks, cool boxes, camera bags etc were aboard we set off through the narrow canals of the Okavango Delta. Our first spot was a malachite kingfisher which set the standard for seeing many other fantastic sights such as African Jacana, hippos, wattled cranes, fish Eagan’s, elephants, red letchwe…….to name but a few.

The waterways were littered with floating islands of pampas grasses, papyrus grasses( which they use for basket weaving), massive beds of water lilies and loads more vegetation. 

We watched with fascination as Fish Eagles swooped in and out of the water…..sometimes successful and sometimes not…. their huge wing span moving the air above our heads as they soundlessly went about their usual activities.

Our 3 hour trip went far too quickly. It was nothing short of magnificent, awesome, breath-taking, eye-opening…….it really was the stuff dreams are made of. 

We made our return journey to the gate at high speed arriving a few minutes before closing time at 6.00pm. The rest of the shake, rattle and roll homeward bound trip was in the dark and we finally got back to the hotel around 8.45pm. 

A wonderful long tiring day. Thank you Moonstroll Safaris for turning dreams into reality …….Thank you John for saying it’s ‘A once in a lifetime experience’ so we won’t worry about the cost. I loved every minute of it.

Botswana – Day 5 & 6 – Exploring the Pans…the magnificence of nature at its best – the zebra migration.

Day 5 This was a rest day for us, we spent the day catching up, with our blog and Facebook and emails…some times it’s important to put an extra day in your trip so as not to get so tired that you can’t appreciate the activities you’ve planned.  The laundry got done and the WhatsApp home to family was made. We drove around the village/town of Gweta a bit and took some pictures of its quirkiness…In the evening we said farewell to Cynthia and Jooste they were moving on, their trip was in its final stages as they returned to Windhoek, Namibia. There was singing and dancing by the staff after supper…their harmonisation is always a wonderful sound. An early night was required due to the next days early start.

Day 6. I don’t know how to start the days description, apart from wow, wow and wow…..

We knew we had  a 73 Km drive to Makgadikgadi Pans National Parks gate…so wrapped up with double fleeces a headscarf around my ears and a mask across my nose…( finally found a use for a covid mask!! ) looking more like a bandit than a Safari goer, we set off at 6.20am with the Chief driving us ….( yes!!  I was awake but only just).

It was cold on the open vehicle and we both had trouble with running eyes and noses from the wind….I put it down my bleary eyesight that I thought I saw a man squatting low in the grass just next to the main A3 road….my first thought was ‘shame he must have been caught short’ but as he started to stand up, he still didn’t seem to pull his trousers up I thought ‘dirty devil he could have gone behind a bush’’…”As we got closer and our eyesight could focus  I realised it wasn’t a man at all  but a huge black maned lion. It crossed the road and walked down the other side of the road, turned around and came back…we spent an enjoyable 10 minutes watching him parade up and back before he disappeared into the bush.  What a great start to the day… 

Arriving at the gate The Chief got us a far more acceptable breakfast which replenished us ready for the next part of the day….nothing could have prepared us for the state of the road…if Tuesday in Ntwetwe Pans, was bad this was horrendous..we shake rattled and rolled along for an hour seeing jackals, steenbok, ostrich, a few zebra, an odd wildebeest, and a ground squirrel. Then suddenly we caught sight of the Boteti River and it’s surrounding plains. It was literally heaving with zebra, as far as the eye could see.

What an amazing sight….There were a few pockets of wildebeest’s and a large pod of hippos in the water. A couple of elephants parted the zebra as they headed to the water…The noise was wonderful snorting,farting and braying. Chief was an expert about getting us within a few feet of the herds and driving us through them…they didn’t seem to even notice us..they stared, snorted and continued doing what they do. After about an hour we followed the river which was dry all apart from some pockets of small lake like oasis. We saw kudu, a pair of blue cranes, more ostrich and finally asked a friendly wildebeest if we could share the shade of his tree to have lunch…he agreed by moving off but his chum stayed put less than 10 feet away. 
After a very pleasant lunch we drove back to the original larger expanse of water. The herds had amassed even more, we would guess well over 1000 head of Zebra. There was a medium sized herd of elephant which continued to be joined by other small herds. They delighted us with their ‘meet and greet’ antics.

The hippos we’re basking in the sun, having vacated the water for the Elephants, their young were wandering around. The wildebeest and their young entertained us by skipping around chasing each other and the zebra continued to snort and bray…..all too soon it was time to head back to the lodge some 2 hours away. On the way out of the park we saw a pair of giraffe, another jackal, a slender mongoose and we visited a solar powered watering hole which was also swarming with zebra and a huge elephant throwing mud around. 

Back on the tarred road we mused over the spectacular scenes we had just witnessed. We came to see the zebra migration and wow did we see it. 

The Chief, had turned out to be a fantastic guide and driver, very friendly and extremely talented, a real asset to Gweta Lodge….Thanks Chief for a totally awesome time.

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