South Africa Safari Day 16 The day of the Jackal

“The day that the rains came” – by Jane Morgan No. 1 on the UK singles chart in 1959 – she died a couple of months ago aged 101….(makes my dad look like a spring chicken at 94 this year 🤣🤣🤣). NO! I am not old enough to remember it, but it seemed an appropriate song to start the day….cold, grey, drizzle…that wonderful smell the bush exudes when it’s been dry for so long and then it gets damped upon.. The temperature didn’t rise to more than 17 degrees Celsius all day and in England we would have called it a miserable grey day….but we’re not in England and in SA it was yet another day for wildlife spotting.

We had a slow start to the day…both of us aching from the rock hard beds…we’re so used to our luxury encapsulated sprung memory foam mattress…we forget how fortunate we are until a bed like last nights reminds us 🤣🤣. But thankfully the shower was powerful enough to massage the aches and pains…

We made a plan and decided to drive the river loops between Olifants and Letaba…that was plan “A”….. John was allowed two choices of first spot today because he is 6-1 down…. He chose elephant and giraffe and I chose zebra….off we went …Oh my goodness!!!! The vibration from the corrugated roads was the worse so far…thank goodness we don’t have false teeth because I am telling you even our jaws were rattling and we’d defiantly have lost any falsies🤣🤣🤣….i didn’t need to bring the “tens” machine with us, these roads shock every fibre within your body….

After 45 minutes without a single sighting Plan “B” was made and we took the circular road back to Olifants…. John was just saying “in 5 minutes time we’ll have been going an our without seeing a single creature, animal or bird”. As he finished talking I caught sight of a Grey Lourie ( now renamed The Go- away bird) . Then 2 minutes later we saw a giraffe standing next to 2 zebra…John claimed the point..6-2 …

Back on the tar we were going to go down to Balule Camp on the dirt…but as I was actually having to use the windscreen wipers, the drizzle was slow steady rain, we hatched Plan “C”. Staying on the tar we saw a nice small troop of Chacma baboons.

Turning down towards Satara we saw a herd of Waterbuck in the rivers shallow channels. Other cars were stopped and it was soon apparent that they weren’t looking at the buck. We asked a car and they said 3 lionesses had been seen……been was the operable word…they could no longer be seen. ….some cars crawled along the road at the edge of the river…we asked again and were told 2 male lions had been seen..yeah! Who started this rumour…no one still there had actually seen a lion….we left them to it.

A little further on we saw a lovely African harrier hawk in a tree next to the road.

As we went over the bridge I spied two magnificent Goliath Herons…they really are majestic…we haven’t seen one since we were with Same Aaron in Botswana in 2023. We spent some time watching them wade in the shallows.

We had been going to turn towards the East and take the road which runs parallel to the Mozambique boarder….but we still hadn’t seen many mammals so Plan “D” was hatched and we turned to the west. It was again a bone-shaker road. After a while we saw a fabulous Kori Bustard….they are very strange looking birds…the largest flying bird native to Africa.

We continued on and as the surrounding area opened up into scrub land plains…and there darting across the plains, across the road and back again were not only one but 3 Black Backed Jackals…..

Black backed jackals are a widely distributed species that are known for their cunning and daring. They are often seen nipping in to steal a morsel from Lions. They have a distinctive call known almost as well as the roar of a lion. They are the most common and best known of all the African carnivores. The name jackal is frequently used to denote the cunning and versatility so typical of this species. They have a dark saddle on the back, which runs from the nape of the neck to the base of the tail. They have a black, bushy tail and reddish flanks and limbs; standing about 400 mm at the shoulder and a meter in total length. Our 3 black backed Jackals were racing around.

A red billed hornbill even photo-bombed my attempt at capturing a running jackal.

I was ecstatic about our sighting as they are one of my absolute favourites.

Shortly after seeing these little fellas we about turned and retraced our steps. On the way back we saw pockets wildebeest keeping out of the rain under a tree.

At the tar road we went straight over on to the Balule Camp Road. We saw quite large groups of impala mostly laid down, keeping warm out of the wind, it had by now stopped raining.

A group of waterbuck grazed at the road side and small groups of zebra hid behind bushes.

We crossed the river on the low pontoon, nothing was on the banks or in the water.

We sat overlooking the water to eat our sandwich before heading back to Olifants camp. We were almost back to the tar when I almost drove past a massive elephant just munching on a bush at the side of the road. We had a quiet conversation and he continued to enjoy his snack while we slowly passed by.

A few metres further on was a much smaller elephant who had obvious aggression towards us…shaking his ears and stamping his feet…we accelerated passed tout de suite, without incident.

Our viewing count for the day was quite low 99+ impala, 2 lilac breasted rollers, 1 grey Lourie, I African fish eagle, 1 African harrier hawk, 6 giraffe, 25 zebra, 2 Goliath herons, 8 baboons, 1 yellow billed hornbill bill, 3 red billed hornbill, 17 waterbuck, 3 black backed jackals, 18 wildebeest, 3 elephants.

Back in the camp we spent the afternoon resting before going to the restaurant for supper. It was heaving as no-one wanted to braii in this inclement weather. We both had burgers, I had chicken breast and John had beef, a Diet Coke each and ice cream to round it off…all for the princely sum of £17.00.

We wandered back to our hut using torchlight then snuggled down for the night…too cold to sit outside and play cards and no room inside.

Tomorrow we head to Satara.

South Africa Safari 29/09/25 Day15 The Day of the Ostrich

I was awoken in the night by the heavy smell of smoke. I got up and checked our huts roof and those of the huts around us…all ok, so the smell was coming from the controlled burn. I returned to bed and had a restless remainder of the night sleep. We both woke early with headaches from the smoke, we needed the fresher air outside the hut to clear our heads.

Today we packed up ready to leave Shingwedzi. We were sad to leave. It was a great camp and excellent game spotting. We said goodbye to Josephine, who was busy chasing a large baboon around with her rake, because he had stollen her black bin liner full of rubbish…..yes it was as funny as it sounds but I kept a straight face and sympathised with her about what a nuisance the baboons were🤣🤣 But on a more serious note …visitors feed the baboons, we evidenced this when we saw one eating a cut up piece of fruit.

Feeding them is signing their death warrant, because they then become a nuisance, they expect food and they are dangerous wild animals…in the end the rangers have no choice but to shoot the whole troop to keep the visitors safe….so if you do safari PLEASE never feed any animal.

We set off down the road, on the way up it had been a tedious drive with very little wildlife to be seen. I gave John the first choice of what we’d see first and he once again said Waterbuck…they had been prolific in the area, I said I’d have pangolin as that way John couldn’t fail to win and he was lagging 5-1 behind….however John said that he didn’t want a gimme so I selected zebra.

Our first spotting was a large elephant, followed by a giraffe. A little later we saw a large herd of zebra…sorry John, it was several hours later before we saw waterbuck, whom John now declares are not his friends…. 6-1 to me!oh dear! 🤣🤣

We continued along the road….up until Mopani we saw a variety of game at fairly regular intervals.

There was a lovely waterhole with drinking tower where elephants were drinking both from the tower and the trough. Buffalo, tsessebe, zebra, impala were all loitering with intent.

Herd of elephant at water trough

A long line of waterbuck crossed the road to join the queue at the trough.

As we progressed we saw another herd of zebra and at the back of the group was a male ostrich. This is only the third ostrich we’ve seen all trip.

 The ostrich is the largest and heaviest living bird. They are flightless. Ostriches are also the fastest running bird, they are able to reach speeds 35 kms an hour Males are typically larger than females, weighing up to 287 pounds and measuring up to 9 feet in height.

A kick from an ostrich is powerful enough to kill a human. They are sometimes referred to as the “ camel bird”. They are heavily farmed and rather frighteningly over a million a year are killed for the fashion industry. They are also farmed for their meat, every part of an ostrich can be used in the farming market- their skin for leather, feathers and meat. There are farms in the Cape area where you can ride an ostrich, sitting behind its neck. However we much prefer to see them in the wild and our sighting was very welcomed. We didn’t see a female with him…when they are courting a mate the males, usually white, legs turn bright pink and they put on a dance display by opening their wings and showing their jet black feathers and pink legs off. The female is a rather greyish brown.

About 12 km before Mopani Camp you cross the Tropic of Capricorn line.

On arriving at Mopani there was a huge herd of buffalo already sitting in the shade. The temperature had reached 33 degrees Celsius.

There was also along line of wildebeest strolling towards a very small waterhole…a few zebra mingled around.

We stopped at Mopani camp for a leg stretch and the loo. It is situated on a dam with a reasonable amount of water in it but there were no animals taking advantage of it. The shop was very well stocked. The camp used to be a delight, but a couple on our former sunset drive said the chalets were very tired and it didn’t seem to have been modernised or even refreshed since it opened in the early 1990’s.

From Mopani to Olifants with the exception of a pair of white backed vultures ( WBV) we saw “diddly squat”…..unless you count anthills. It was a long drive with the cars cruise control locked in to 47kmph all that was left for me to do was steer….it really is a dry area for game. We passed Letaba and headed on to Olifants. The turn up from the main road to camp is 9 km…we laughingly said “ let’s see if the number of animals we spot equals the number of km”…..no it was 9-0 to the kms🤣

We booked in…our hut was a small rondavel, not unsimilar to the Letaba hut….only this time the curtains had been replaced and did meet in the middle. There was only room for one case and the only plug socket was once again next to the sink….(because I didn’t book until April this was the only accommodation available, it’s wise to book 11 months in advance and choose the best accommodation you can afford. If it’s just 2 of you try for a 3 bedroomed hut so you have somewhere to open your bags and cases) . The air conditioning took several hours to cool the rondavel to a comfortable temperature. We did however have a view of the river and we could see two hippo having an altercation.

We headed out for a drive at about 4.30pm. We took the road down to Balule Camp because it runs alongside the river. We saw a couple of elephant in the river…apart from that our circle back on to the main road was once again devoid of any living creature. Once back on the main road we headed along toward the Olifants Camp turn off, suddenly a couple of large elephants walked across the road from the river, stopping on the road edge to browse from the shrubbery. Then more and more came. A car came up close behind me..I swerved on to the other side of the road and reversed next to them. I told them I’d done it because they had got too close to me and didn’t give me the opportunity to reverse at speed if I needed to avoid a stampeding elephant….turns out they were French and didn’t understand a word I said. Another car arrived and I reversed back to them….it was a breeding herd of elephants. A youngster stood on the road kneeled down and punched his head onto the tarmac… a strange gesture and we were uncertain whether it was scared or angry. Finally after 20 minutes they all, seemed to have crossed the road including the youngster. Although two were still feeding on the road edge we followed the French car leaving enough distance for us to be able to accelerate if necessary.

We turned up the 9 km road to the camp. This time it was 9-1 to the km…a giraffe obligingly gave us a nice view. We made it back into camp a few minutes before the gate closes….i don’t know whether an elephant roadblock would have been excuse enough, if we’d been late🤣🤣

Our viewing count for the day was 99+ impala, 4 squirrels, 60 wildebeest, 1 yellow billed hornbill, 2 yellow billed stork, 1 lilac breasted rollers, 11 warthog, 5 quail, 21 giraffe, 99+ elephants, 99+ zebra, 1 ostrich, 1 kudu, 5 tsessebe, 75 buffalo, 47 waterbuck, 1 saddle-billed stork, 13 hippo, 3 WBV.

We went to the restaurant for supper…I had roasted chicken and John had venison steak. It came to £23 which included two Coke lites each. We asked a couple who had come in from the parks sunset drive if they had seen much. We had been toying about taking it the following night. But as they had only seen a scrub hare, a jackal and an owl we decided to give it a miss and save the money for an extra drive in Satara.

We returned to our bijou rondavel for a game of cards and an early night…in beds which could have been made of rock.

South Africa Safari 2025 Day 13 – The day of the Tsessebe.

“Oh it’s such a perfect day
I’m glad I spend it with you
oh such a perfect day you just keep me hangin on
you just keep me hangin on” …

….That’s what you do Mother Nature…..and then you deliver, time and time again. ……half way through this perfect day we both burst into song….after all, the birds, wildlife, trees and plants aren’t going to tell us to shut up are they. It was a lovely bright day with temperatures back to around 26 Celsius.

We had a slow start to the day…both showered and hair washed, clean cloths and just a small pot each of yogurt for breakfast, supplies need replenishing. John made rolls for lunch while battling to keep the vervet monkeys off the food and out of the kitchen…if it wasn’t the monkeys it was the glossy starlings and the squirrels….quite a sight to see John “sshhhing” them away…one monkey distracted him while another sneaked in behind …eventually he succeeded. I had in the meantime been sorting out the dirty washing ready to go to the laundry.

Our house keeper arrived just as we were leaving. I asked her where the laundry was and she pointed but then she said she would do it for me. I asked how much and she said anything I wanted to give her…so I said 150 Rands ( £6) and she beamed from ear to ear…I gave her the detergent and she said she’d bring it all back tomorrow morning…bless her. When we got back at lunchtime she had decorated our beds with the towels and leaves and pods and she had put a glass on a doily full of flowers next to our beds….Josephine you are a lovely lady.

With the washing taken care of it meant we could go out game spotting much earlier. We went out of the back gate and headed along the river side….wow…it was prolific for game…within 10 minutes we had driven 2 kms and seen 8 different species……our first sight was a squirrel just as we left the camps gate. We saw loads of waterbuck, giraffe, elephants, small groups of dagger boys – old male buffalo, zebra, kudu, hippos, and of course we soon counted 99+ impala….for an area which has a reputation of being devoid of wildlife it was our most prolific day game viewing so far this holiday.

We spent along time looking up a tree with 2 other vehicles who informed us there was a leopard sleeping up the tree……if it was it was buried deep in the foliage of the tree …as you know leopards can sleep for along time and we decided to leave her to it.

We retraced our route back to camp. On the way back we came across a magnificent specimen of a bull Nyala…a very handsome male…he seemed to be on his own with no harem.

On arrival at the camp it was once again a hive of activity…bus and mini bus loads full of school children and locals. It was “heritage day” earlier in the week and we think the park drops the conservation daily fee for locals during the week. As we drove through camp I stopped and commented how beautiful a lady looked in traditional clothing, she wanted us to take her photo which we obligingly did…

We stopped at our chalet for a quick loo break before heading out of the front gate….lo and behold on the opposite bank of the river were two tsessebe antelope.

The tsessebe has a strange name which is fitting for its rather strange look. It is larger and somewhat different in appearance than the other two animals of the same genus (blesbok and bontebok). Both sexes carry horns which are more splayed, and a black (rather than a white) blaze marks the face. The tsessebes upper parts are dark reddish-brown with a distinct purplish sheen and paler belly. They have a characteristic shoulder hump which is higher than its rump. The tsessebe is reportedly the fasted of all antelope and it can reach speeds of up to 90 km. It is a grazer and is often the first to arrive on areas after a burn as they specifically like fresh growth and shoots.

As we watched these rarely seen beauties another car stopped and asked us what we were looking at. We told them and they drove straight on, obviously neither appreciating the rare sighting or the beauty of this magnificent creature.

We continued out to the S53 where we had seen the lions yesterday. On the way we saw a lot of white backed vultures, elephant, zebra and a lone wildebeest. The S53 was no longer lion ridden, there was no sigm of them. Not far from where they had been, a group of Chacma baboons happily sauntered across the track. The thick undergrowth and vegetation makes spotting a challenge and photo opportunities near on impossible…

On our way back to camp we spied a very elegant martial eagle in a tree close to the road.

We watched aline of zebra cross the dry river bed and disappear into the bush. Stopping back at the tsessebe we decided to eat our lunch. Back in camp it was time for a rest.

Our spotting count for the day was …we don’t include the sunset drive spots because it’s too difficult to record bouncing up and down all the time.. 99+ impala, 65 elephant, 6 squirrel, 13 warthog, 58 zebra, 63 waterbuck, 13 kudu, 21 giraffe, 6 yellow-billed stork, 48 buffalo, 2 yellow billed hornbill, 2 quail, 8 spur-fowl, 37 hippo, 1 grey lourie, 1 nyala, 1 African fish eagle, 21 Chacma baboons, 2 saddle-billed stork, 4 tsessebe, 3 vervet monkeys, 1 wildebeest, 9 WBV, 1 lilac breasted roller, 1 martial eagle……what a prolific game drive!

We wandered across to the carpark for the sunset drive at 4.15pm. I was immediately pounced upon by some colourfully dressed ladies who wanted their photos taken with the white, blonde lady….i was grateful when another couple joined us and shifted the photographic lime lite to them. It was a strange experience.

When the small 10 seater Safari vehicle arrived we quickly jumped on. While the driver did his paper work another group of local visitors jumped on the vehicle to have their photos taken on a Safari vehicle with the white people…it was all a bit overwhelming and surreal. We were glad when the driver returned along with 2 more guests who sat on the row of seats infront of us. Delight introduced himself, reminded us of the Safari vehicle game drive etiquette and informed us that the extra two people were also game rangers/ guides from one of the local 5* reserves. Great we had 3 guides instead of just one. We set of for out 3 hour drive with high hopes.

Delight followed the same route we had been in the morning. We saw some lovely sights along the river banks . Including 2 more tsessebe. He stopped several times to talk about both lion and impala scat- poo!! We went to where the leopard had been seen but the remaining car said it had already left the tree and disappeared into the undergrowth. We did however catch sight of a fish eagle.

On our return trip a large eagle owl was seen in the twilight.

We went some time before sighting a Scops owl at the edge of the road. It flew into a tree and we watched it for a while.

A couple of adorable bush babies were seen leaping around the bushes. Quite close to camp we saw a raging bush fire but Delight assured us it was a controlled burn. The Parks board does have areas they burn from time to time. They keep it under control by putting in firebreaks. It is so the earth regenerates and it allows seeds to germinate and fresh growth quickly appears. This is the time of year they do this, just before the rains begin.

On returning to camp we tipped Delight and thanked him for a very enjoyable 3 hour drive. We decided as it was 7.45pm we would eat in the restaurant. We both had pies, I had chicken, John had venison. Thankfully they had vegetables which were delightful, a mixture of cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, mange-toot, courgette, peppers and corn….i think it was frozen but it was very welcomed. Our meal cost less than £15 for us both. We returned to our chalet happy and tired….an excellent day in the bush….oh what a perfect day…